Saturday, February 28, 2009

Throwin' it out there

Tonight I have the pleasure of sharing some stories, photos, and video of my trip to The Grit in preparation for Ambrosia. We collected plenty of each during our 2 month stay last Autumn. The multimedia show features great photography by: 

Jerry Dodrill

Cory Richards

Dave Simmonite

and Adam Long

We also have some great video from the highlights of the trip, including the sends (and falls from):

'Parthian Shot', E9 ground-up

The Team Send of 'End of the Affair,' E8

The Deck...

...and send of 'Gaia,' E8

And last but not least, I have an exclusive teaser video from Big Up Productions, as well as some amazing photos by Tim Kemple of Ambrosia. It's been amazing to travel lately, but even more fun is coming home and sharing those experiences with people. So, I'm throwing it out there that I would love to bring this slideshow to your local climbing gym, climbing club, or wherever you get psyched on climbing. On top of the slideshow, I'd be happy to host a screening of PURE. It could be a two night event of watching an amazing climbing film, getting psyched, and then laughing at me hit the ground off Gaia! In between the shows, I'd also be psyched on teaching a technique and movement clinic that I have been working on perfecting over the past 4 years. So, that's PURE, a multimedia show, and some climbing clinics. If you're interested, shoot me an email:

Till next time....

Friday, February 27, 2009

CA Premiere of Pure

Last night, I hosted the CA Premiere of Pure at the Rialto Theatre in my home town of Santa Rosa. There was a great turn out, nearly selling out the 260 seat theatre. I want to thank EVERYONE who came out to watch the film. It's always cool to get the climbing community together in one place. 

To me, Pure is a homage to everything we love about climbing: the lifestyle, the movement, the travels, and the people. I'm proud to be a part of the film. A big thanks goes out to Vertex Climbing Center and Marmot for sponsoring the Premiere. Another big thanks goes out to all the local climbers, namely Chris Summit, Marcos Nunez, and Richie Esquibel, who are responsible for the vast majority of the first ascents in Sonoma County, including most of the problems featured in my section of the film. Without their exploratory efforts and great climbing skills, we would not have nearly as many great climbs on our coast as we do now. Or perhaps it would have taken a bit longer to have discovered them. I'm not sure if those three guys were in the crowd, so if you were not, hat's off to ya!

Lastly, thanks to Jerry Dodrill ( for shooting some photos of last night's event. Jerry and I have been on many an adventure together. I wonder what will come up next, after all, his nick name is "The Instigator...." 

Until next time....

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Off to Boulder

I got a call from Chuck Fryberger yesterday asking me if I wanted to come out to the World Premiere of Pure in Boulder, CO. "Of course I do!" I said and now I'm off first thing tomorrow morning. I'm looking forward to the show, the people, hanging with old friends, and getting outside to climb while I am there. I'm sure it will be a packed house. Hopefully Chuck didn't make me look like too much of a doofus on film, because I'm sure I did plenty of that myself. Oh well! It should be funny to see my doctor's visit on the big screen. My ankle still hasn't grown back the hair from when I removed the tape job I received while at the visit. 
It went something like this:


Brutal. I don't know why I'm smiling in that photo. It hurt like hell....
Luckily the twisted ankle was minor and healed up fine.

Till next time...

Tuesday, February 17, 2009


If you haven't seen the trailer for Chuck Fryberger's upcoming film, Pure, be sure to check it out:

The world premiere is this Friday at the Boulder Theatre, so if you are around Boulder, be sure to check it out. 

Also, I will be hosting the California Premiere at the Rialto Theatre in Santa Rosa, CA on February 26th at 7:15. Doors open at 6:15. Tickets are 10 bucks and be purchased ahead of time at the Rialto or at the door. 

Chuck flew out here to California in September and we shot all along the Sonoma coastline, capturing the unique landscape and some of the stunning lines this area has to offer. Having grown up climbing on the coast, I'm especially excited to see my home area on the big screen. A lot of the climbs featured in the film only became a reality for me after traveling. As a friend once told me, traveling allows you to see your home with new eyes. This has been very true for me. Lines that I once walked under many times before without so much as a glance now loom over me and cannot be mistaken. Local climber Marcos Nunez is responsible for the first ascent of many local testpieces. Many of the tall lines he established as top ropes. After climbing lots of highballs around the country, I began to see their potential to be done rope-less. Climbs like:

Stony White Boots Johnson, 5.13a solo, 1st Rope-less Ascent

Moby's Dick, 5.12 solo, 2nd Ascent

Also, on one particularly caffeinated day, I managed to stick the Charlie Barrett dyno, "Flying Monkey" at Fort Ross. 

All of these climbs and more will be featured in Pure, along with my personal climbing hero, Fred Nicole! 

Be sure to check out Pure wherever you are. 
February 20: Boulder, CO: Boulder Theatre
February 26th: Santa Rosa, CA: Rialto Theatre
March 19th: Riverside, CA: Hanger 18
Or order it online at: 


I just saw the new issue of Climbing and couldn't be happier. Ambrosia, my pride and joy, is on the cover. Tim Kemple did an amazing job capturing this line and certainly did it justice with this image. Thanks Tim!