Monday, March 16, 2009
Friday, March 13, 2009
A heist went down in Eldorado Canyon yesterday. A classic boulder problem, on great rock, with amazing movement, in a centralized location, of respectable difficulty, was established by a......Californian? I called it The Heist because I was amazed that it hadn't been done before. So amazed, that I struggled to keep it on the down low for the three days it took to do it between finding, cleaning, working and sending. It's located across, and slightly downstream, from the Milton Boulder in Eldo. Just look to the right as you're driving up to the Milton and you'll see it. It's 25 feet tall, 40 degrees overhanging and has a landing that follows it up. Andy Mann and I were hiking around Eldo, looking for potential, when he remembered "a 25 foot wall over this way." Sure enough, there it was: a 50 foot long, 25 foot tall wall. The Heist takes the most obvious line, beginning on two jugs as a sit start, and following a crack up the wall until it peters out, leaving you to crimp your way up the remainder of the way. There are crimps, a mono, slopers, pinches, and a victory jug. What more could you ask for!?!
Coming from a home town that is not blessed with world class rock within 30 minutes of my front door (we have to drive a little further), I am always psyched to visit Colorado. What strikes me most is the amount of first ascent potential still available. To me, there is nothing more fun than the process of making a first ascent. Your patience, creativity, determination, and skills as a climber are all tested. I enjoy not knowing whether or not something is possible, creating something out of what was nothing more than a lichen covered rock in the forest, figuring out moves that nobody has before, and most of all, contributing a new line for more people to enjoy.
With two more days left in the trip, I'm hoping that I can find and establish a few more of the many classic lines waiting to be found.
Till next time...
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
After an EPIC day of travel, involving an exploding tire at 5am, sitting in a bad part of Oakland for 3 hours, missing a flight, and flying standby, I made it to Boulder. Pysched! I'm here to check out some first ascent and highball potential. I've been busy working most of February, so it will be nice to be out of the gym, rock climbing again.
I woke up this morning to an inch or so of snow on the ground, so today has been demoted to a recon day. We'll hike around, scope out lines, and make a plan of attack for tomorrow. Can't wait.
Till next time....