The Heist

A heist went down in Eldorado Canyon yesterday. A classic boulder problem, on great rock, with amazing movement, in a centralized location, of respectable difficulty, was established by a......Californian? I called it The Heist because I was amazed that it hadn't been done before. So amazed, that I struggled to keep it on the down low for the three days it took to do it between finding, cleaning, working and sending. It's located across, and slightly downstream, from the Milton Boulder in Eldo. Just look to the right as you're driving up to the Milton and you'll see it. It's 25 feet tall, 40 degrees overhanging and has a landing that follows it up. Andy Mann and I were hiking around Eldo, looking for potential, when he remembered "a 25 foot wall over this way." Sure enough, there it was: a 50 foot long, 25 foot tall wall. The Heist takes the most obvious line, beginning on two jugs as a sit start, and following a crack up the wall until it peters out, leaving you to crimp your way up the remainder of the way. There are crimps, a mono, slopers, pinches, and a victory jug. What more could you ask for!?!

Perfect start holds...

A mono...

Fun moves...

Finger locks...

First crux...

Drawing blood...

Big lock off...

Top crux ...

Great slopers at the end...

"That felt sooo good..."

Coming from a home town that is not blessed with world class rock within 30 minutes of my front door (we have to drive a little further), I am always psyched to visit Colorado. What strikes me most is the amount of first ascent potential still available. To me, there is nothing more fun than the process of making a first ascent. Your patience, creativity, determination, and skills as a climber are all tested. I enjoy not knowing whether or not something is possible, creating something out of what was nothing more than a lichen covered rock in the forest, figuring out moves that nobody has before, and most of all, contributing a new line for more people to enjoy.

With two more days left in the trip, I'm hoping that I can find and establish a few more of the many classic lines waiting to be found.

Till next time...
kj