Tuesday, April 28, 2009

New Shoe Testing

All I have to say is these shoes are simply awesome. The best shoe I've ever worn. Keep an eye out for them in the future.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Bouldering with Verm

On Friday, I had the pleasure of going out bouldering with John Sherman. If you're a boulderer and don't know who John Sherman is......well that's just sad. He created our grade scale after all! Come on!

Due a particular scathing blog post about roped cleaning and rehearsal, I decided to show him that even the new schoolers have balls, even if they are, in his opinion, smaller than his. Germ Free Adolescence is an absolutely CLASSIC boulder problem. As good as they come. Verm made the first ascent, ground up with no pads (of course) in 1980. So, I decided to try to flash the problem in similar style...

It was an honor to go bouldering with Verm, even if he doesn't spot you.

Spending the day talking with Verm gave me a renewed appreciation of our sport's past. Verm, along with John Gill, and Yvon Chouinard and others are living legends of our sport. We would NOT be where we are today if Gill had not applied the dynamic nature of gymnastics to rock, if Chouinard had not led the way in the clean climbing revolution, and if Sherman had not developed the grade scale we use to this day. If I were still wearing that ugly sun hat I wore in Bishop, it would be off to them.

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Rocky Mountain Highball

This Monday is the WORLD PREMIERE of Rocky Mountain Highball. This is a film I am very proud to be a part if. It is rare to find a cinematographer capable of doing proud lines JUSTICE on film. Making you say "WOW" just like you did the first time you walk up to a beautiful problem.  Scott Neel and crew has done this with over 70 different beautiful climbs and over 35 unique athletes. This film speaks to all climbers, not just the strong ones, the bold ones, or the young ones. Just look at the cast: 

Pat Ament
Tommy Caldwell
Aly Dorey
Adie Droley
Chuck Fryberger
John Gill
Laura Griffiths
Lynn Hill
Justin Jaeger
Jason Kehl
Melissa Lacasse
Sarah Marvez
Andy Raether
Paul Robinson
Andy Salo
Matt Samet
John Sherman
Jonathan Siegrist
Matt Wilder
Mark Wilford
Daniel Woods
Mike Banuelos
Phil Benningfield
Scott Blunk
Cam Cross
Herm Feissner
Mike Frieschlag
Naomi Guy
Ned Harris
TJ Kelly
Steve Mamme
Ben Scott 
Flan Shay-Nemirow
Kevin Smith
Justin Wood

Whew!!! See what I mean? All abilities, generations and flavors of highball bouldering will be discussed, shown, and admired. I haven't seen it yet, but don't expect your typical climbing porn flick from this FILM. This is going to be an in depth look into the world of highball bouldering, where your actions have consequences, however large or small. Check out the details from the director himself:

Yama Studio and The American Alpine Club present ROCKY MOUNTAIN HIGHBALL.

“Rocky Mountain Highball” is a new climbing film that presents an in depth look into why some climbers push themselves to boulder at the vertical limit. The film documents the many facets of bouldering by interweaving numerous classic climbs in Colorado with interview footage from the leading figures of the climbing world.

Director/Filmmaker Scott Neel, and Yama Studio have brought in a huge cast of world renowned climbers, like Paul Robinson, Mark Wilford, Kevin Jorgeson, Lynn Hill, Daniel Woods, John Sherman, John Gill, Steve Mammen, and Jason Kehl. Having filmed more than 70 climbs with more than 35 athletes, this film proves to be an exciting journey through the world of highball bouldering.

Pre-sale tickets are on sale now at The Boulder Rock Club and The Spot Bouldering Gym for $12. Tickets are $14 at the door and also available at www.BoulderTheater.com. Here is a direct link to the page - http://bouldertheater.com/event_detail.php?id=1067

Please visit www.RockyMountainHighball.com for more info, the official trailer, and interactive cast line-up.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

This Friday!

I'm excited to take part this Friday in a fundraising event for the Elizabethfontaine Primary School in Rocklands, South Africa. When Chuck asked me if I would like to give a slideshow before the showing of Pure, I jumped at the opportunity. I'm looking forward to it! See below for details from Chuck's blog:

Mark your calendars!

This Friday at Mines University in Golden, CO we are hosting a charity showing of my new film PURE to benefit the Elizabethfontaine Primary School in Rocklands, South Africa. This school serves the children of the farm workers in the Rocklands area. Some of the students come from up to 12 miles away to attend classes. In addition to providing the school with much needed funds, you should come to the show because...

It's good for us!

This well-managed and award-winning school sits in the middle of one of the best bouldering areas on the planet, Rocklands. As wave after wave of climbers travel to Rocklands to test their skills against classic boulder problems, visitors and locals alike brace for the first wave of access restrictions, closures, and regulations. Similar to Hueco Tanks, Rocklands is covered with archeologic sites and pictographs. Taking an interest in the community is one of the best ways to build a good reputations for climbers and will go a long ways to keeping access open in the future.

Watch the Trailer for Pure

Coolbaugh #209, Colorado School of Mines, Golden Colorado
doors at 7pm

tickets $7 (100% of proceeds benefit the school)

We have a special guest slide show from professional climber Kevin
Jorgeson, a bake sale, and gear raffle from Scarpa, Marmot, La Sportiva,
Cloudveil, and others. We would love to see you there, it will be a
fun low-key event and a way to help those in need. Let me know if you
have any questions, I look forward to seeing you there!

A Weekend in Bishop

On Thursday, I hopped in the car and made the ever familiar drive over to Bishop. The main purpose of the trip was to donate some time and sweat to the Buttermilks, an area in which I have spent my fair share of time over the years. This Adopt-A-Crag event was put on by the Access Fund, Friends of the Inyo, and the Eastern Climbers Coalition. I would say that about 40 people came out and spent a good part of the day working on the trails around the Buttermilks. The goal was to preserve large "islands" of plants by eliminating unnecessary trail branches, reinforcing main trials, thereby minimizing future impact. 

The Crew

My job was to collect rocks from around the road, load them into this tank of a wheel barrow, and carefully drive it up the trail to wherever they were needed. After many trips up and down the hill, we were able to largely line the main trials with rocks, thus eliminating any confusion as to where you should be walking. As if its that hard to begin with! But, due to the sheer volume of excited climbers in the Buttermilks, everywhere you look there is a footprint. So, hopefully this effort will pay off. 

Yes. I know. Nice hat. 

Before and after the trail day, we got some climbing in. This is my FAVORITE climb at the Buttermilks: the Southeast Arete of the Grandma Peabody. I do it every time I'm in Bishop.

Walking down from the Happy Boulders on Sunday, we were greeted by this:
Sarah was walking in front of me and startled it. By the time it curled up and started rattling, my feet were inches away from it! Upon hearing the rattle, I did the snake dance, back peddling onto the boulders that line the trail, trundling a few as I struggled for balance, and eventually fell down the hill on my ass. Luckily, I didn't get bit, and neither did anyone else. I did however tweak my ankle, AGAIN. I'm beginning to realize how vulnerable my ankles are, the impact they have withstood thus far in my climbing, and wonder how long they will hold up!

We had a great crew from Santa Rosa, Norway (Ivan) and Canada (John). Here we all are at the end of the trip. Good times.

L-R: Sarah, Me, Ivan, Dave, Christina, Sarah, Jerry, John

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Slideshows, Clinics, and Traveling

Today I confirmed a two day event at Central Washington University in which I will have the opportunity to share some of my stories and climbing experience with the psyched climbing community there. Climbing (especially professionally) is, by most counts, a selfish endeavor. For this reason, I love doing events such as this one at CWU. If you are in the area of CWU on May 2 and 3rd, be sure to come check it out. I'll be offering four, 2-hour clinics, ranging in scope from technique and movement to making your mind your most powerful asset as a climber. The next day, I will present my slideshow, The Road to Ambrosia. 

I am psyched to travel to wherever there is a psyched community of climbers, so if you think your home gym or college would want to host something like this, email me at: kevin.jorgeson@gmail.com 

I am looking to schedule events during the following dates:
May 20-27
June 1-6

After the May 2 and 3 event, I'll be headed to Bishop to give back to the area in which I have spent so much time. The Eastern Sierra Climber's Coalition and Friends of the Inyo are organizing a trail work day on Saturday the 18th at the Buttermilks. If you are around, this is a great cause for an area that has been seeing exponentially increasing traffic. 

Following this event, it's off to Colorado for some climbing and the Rocky Mountain Highball world premiere, presented by the American Alpine Club. Speaking of the AAC, they offer this really cool feature as part of their membership called the Global Rescue Service. With no elevation restrictions, GRS will provide, arrange, and pay all necessary and ordinary expenses for rescue, air and/or surface transport to the nearest medical transport up to $5000 as part of your standard AAC membership. When I heard about this feature last year, my family signed me up before I could even do so myself. 

On top of all the other great benefits you receive with an AAC membership, the rates are more than reasonable. Check them out: www.americanalpineclub.org

I hope everyone is getting some good weather, allowing them to get out and enjoy the natural world. Remember, we leave an impact wherever we go. Make it the smallest impact possible.


Friday, April 3, 2009

Rocky Mountain Highball

If you have not checked out the new website for Rocky Mountain Highball yet, do so NOW:

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that this is going to be the first climbing FILM ever made. It's not climbing porn, it's top notch camera work, editing, story and cast. From the old school to the new school, RMH features them all. If it's any testament to Scott Neel's attention to detail, I heard he spent a full 8 hour day choosing the font for the website. Having worked with Scott and the crew multiple times for RMH, I can vouch for the time, energy, and attention to detail put into EVERY shot. 
  • Great lighting? Check. 
  • Stable shots? Every time. 
  • In focus? Of Course. 
  • Great angles? You bet. 
  • Cool problems? We are talking about RMH here! See for yourself...

Rocky Mountain Highball premieres at the Boulder Theatre in Boulder, CO on April 27th. Don't hesitate. Click here and get your tickets while there are still some to buy: 

I hope to see you there!


Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Monthly Product I Love:

At the start of each month, I'm going to take a moment to write about a product that I use on EVERY climbing trip. Something that gets packed EVERY time, no matter what. These are products that I feel help me perform my best, make my life easier, or are just plain cool. I can hear it now..."But you're sponsored by these people, of course you love their products and will rave about them..."
Understand that these are mutually beneficial agreements. I choose to endorse these products because they are the best on the market. The products are not the best on the market because I'm choosing to endorse them. Quality is quality no matter what. 
With that said, here is my choice for April: 

Marmot's Eiger 35 Pack

I love this pack because, as a climber, it is the perfect size. With a volume of 35 liters, I can fit a 60 meter rope,  a full rack of 14 or so cams, half a dozen quickdraws, several pairs of climbing shoes, chalk bag, harness, food, water, and a few extra layers of clothing. I can even lash a thermarest and a lightweight tent to the sides of the pack. No problem. I've used it to approach Half Dome with 35 pounds of stuff as well as for day trips looking for new problems. The compression molded back panel molds to fit your back perfectly while the S-curved shoulder straps and the thick waist belt help distribute the load however you like. 

Additionally, the Eiger 35 has a hydration pocket for your water bladder, stash pockets in the waist strap, a solid closure system for the lid, and above all, its COMFORTABLE. 

It's the only pack I own for all of these reasons. If I'm packing lighter, I'm wearing a crash pad, otherwise, it's the Eiger 35. To check out the true technical details of this pack, visit http://www.marmot.com/