Tuesday, March 29, 2011

New Project!

For some reason, it takes me a long time to accept a new project. In a purgatory of non-committment, an idea for a new line will sit for weeks, months, even years. Then, one day, a switch flips. I become obsessed. Usually this happens when I come to the realization that the project is possible. This is exactly what happened yesterday with a line I have been looking at for LONG time. It's right under our noses, just right of the quintessential highball, Evilution.

The Grandpa Peabody

Several seasons ago, Matt Birch made the first ascent of Social Distortion, a wicked hard 4 move v13 on the right side of the wall that drops off at an obvious flake. Anthony Chertudi repeated the feat, perhaps unknowing of Matt's ascent, naming it Blood Meridian and confirming the grade. Above the "heart" flake lies three moves that are just as hard, if not harder, to gain the lip. From here, a crazy sequence involving a heel hook above your head at the 20 foot level gets you to the last crux: 2 full length lock-offs with your feet above the lip. The first is a long left arm pull off of a half pad knob to a credit card razor. The next is taking the razor and pulling it down to your arm pit to gain a good edge, which you mantle to safety.

Dan Beall on Social Distortion, v13

Yesterday afternoon, I had a great session on the project, climbing through Social Distortion for the first time and falling on the first move off of the "heart" flake, which is a huge left hand move to an incut gaston. After getting boosted through Social Distortion, I was able to stick the next left hand move and fall after making the scrunchy hand-foot match. I think a little stretching is in order....

After focusing on the Dawn Wall for the last few years, it feels great to have a good 'ol bouldering project to sink my teeth into. The temperatures are warming up here in Bishop, but the evenings remain nice, so we'll see how it goes! Tonight, I'm going to keep working the upper half of the project, getting from the "heart" flake to the lip. If these moves go, then it's time to round out at least 16 pads (we had 12 yesterday and it wasn't even close to enough) and go for it!



  1. Sounds a lot more exciting than sitting in meetings all day! Good luck!

  2. That's what I'm talking about!
    Sounds burly as hell.

  3. Kevin, I agree with Lorna. You put your time in now it's time to chalk up and do what you do best. Robyn

  4. That's what's up Kevin!! I played on the bottom part a little bit this spring with my friends. Such good movement. The top looks wicked hard.

    So psyched to hear that it does actually go from the flake to the lip. So dope!

    Good luck on your efforts and I cannot wait to see how this rig pans out!

  5. Sounds awesome, good luck man. I thought the three moves to the lip were worlds harder than than "blood meridian". I managed the move to the gaston and the hand foot match, but the move to the side pull and from there to the lip seem ridic.

    Does it seem like conditions are okay out there? I haven't really managed to make it out at all this season :/

  6. That was cool to see you up there working on that. Looked like right when I left you were going for the move to the lip. Deffinetely going to me one of the sickest most asthetic lines in the buttermilks.

  7. Nice Kevin!

    I think this is the best undone project I have ever seen! Full Package! Hope you send it! Will be one of the best, hardest, and proudest lines on the planet! I can't wait to get back there and try it.

    Good Luck and be safe!