Friday, November 12, 2010

Here we go!

Tomorrow morning, November 13, Tommy and I will hike to the base of El Cap. However, this time the familiar approach will feel definitively different. This time, we are not coming down at the end of the day. This time, it's for real. Our camps are stashed, our beta is refined, and the weather is clear. For the next two weeks, Tommy and I are finally beginning our send push. We call it a push because, after the first day, it will undoubtedly be a battle for every pitch.

Day 1 is one of most important days of the push. We will cover more ground on our first day than any other day over the next two weeks. Our plan is to climb the first 8 pitches, which break down like this:

Pitch 1: 5.12b glacier polished slab, KJ lead
KJ mini-traxioning Pitch 1 earlier this season

Pitch 2: 5.13a crack, TC lead
Pitch 3: 5.13d discontinuous cracks, KJ lead
KJ on the first crux of Pitch 3, November 2009, Tim Kemple Photo

Pitch 4: 5.12b corner and crack with wet streak at the top, TC lead
Pitch 5: 5.12d crack and lieback with wet sections throughout, KJ lead
Pitch 6: 5.13c corner and face, TC lead
Tommy on Pitch 6 in November 2009, Tim Kemple Photo

Pitch 7: 5.14a lieback with hard crux at the top, protected by peckers, KJ lead
Tommy on Pitch 7 in November 2009, Tim Kemple Photo

Pitch 8: 5.13+ boulder problem, TC lead
Camp is stashed at the top of pitch 8

Day 2 will consist of pitch 9, 5.13b, and hopefully a send of pitch 10, 5.14.

Pitch 9, 5.13b

Tommy mini-traxioning the bottom of Pitch 10

After day two and the completion of pitch 10 (which is a monster), we will likely be spending one day for each pitch thereafter with rest days mixed in. Pitches 12, 13, 14, and 15 are all 5.14, and solid at that. This effort is the culmination of roughly 65 days of work over three season. I don't think I'm going to sleep well tonight, but only because I can't wait to get started. I'll do my best to update from the wall as we make progress.




  2. Good luck guys! Hopefully the conditions stay good for your push.

  3. Amazing post Kevin! Best of luck to you both!

  4. Good Luck Guys! We'll be rooting for ya!

  5. The best of luck dudes!!

    A lot of people are sending good vibes so that motivation, friction and power are never a problem to you on the wall!!!!

    Go for it, no holding back matter what's the outcome it will be a good experience and you are the best!!

    Good Luck,

  6. I send you power from Spain. All the best. Breath a lot before the 200 crux on the route. All the best. Push and push as hell mate :-)

  7. Best of wishes for a Triumphant journey! You two are AMAZING and you deserve this. Good Luck!

  8. Cool! Good luck! :)

  9. Awesome! Are you guys planning to both redpoint every pitch?

  10. Get it boys! I'll be in the valley Tuesday- channeling you guys some send juice!

  11. Awesome! Looking forward to the updates! Best to you guys - reap the rewards of your lengthy efforts!

    Erik Wolfe

  12. This is the kind of stuff that inspires me. My psych to climb and get strong is more intense than ever and this project has played a big role in that.

    I know I speak for many when I say this.

    Let's see it boy's!

  13. With you in spirit.


  14. Impressive! Very impressive!! Hope they are prepared for the storm that looks like will hit us later this week.

  15. hey kevin tommy!!
    this is it hope you guys send!! may the el cap gods be with you