Wednesday, February 24, 2010

New Signature Asana Crash Pad: Phase 3: Testing

So, I just spent a week and half in Bishop testing the new prototypes (5 made in all) with the Asana Team. We compiled a bunch of great feedback that will only make the pad better. I will spare you the details for now, until we have the next prototype finished next week. Then you can see the changes for yourself. We have improvements being made to nearly every element of the pad, really dialing it in. I'd say that our first prototype was about 85% of the way there. The last 15% is coming from fine tuned changes to the carrying system, closure system, foam combination, and measurement details.

Charlie Barrett and I checking out the differences between our two prototypes

Checking out the gear storage system

Nice burly handles

Talking design...

Golden Shower, v10

Took come good drops from here before committing to the heel hook crux last move. Simply amazing boulder problem!

Mesothelioma, v7 or so

As promised, I will take your comments into consideration. See below.

awesome ... it looks cool - bether than my big madrock pad ... i hope to get one of these here in europe :)
Thanks Martin. We plan on offering them globally, so stay tuned if you're interested!

m. said...
I wonder about the hing system though. Up here in Squamish we find it quite difficult to flatten out landings with that style. I prefer a taco style. Also with damp ground it's nice to have a top fabric that allows you to wipe your feet dry. Aside from those small points the pad looks quite beefy.

When you say that you prefer the taco style for flattening out landings, do you mean that you like to fill in holes with the folded up pad? Or, do you find that the full taco simply does a better job of staying rigid over the gaps? Would love to hear some further input on this fact. Regarding a top fabric to dry your feet, we will be swapping out those camo accents on the corners of the pad with carpet. We noticed the same problem in Bishop with all the snow around. Thanks!

Anonymous said...
Whoever comes up with a viable inflatable/deflatable pad will own and revolutionize the market. The main impediment to these things are their size, making them impracticable for air travel (and having 4 of them in a small rental car once you get there), not to mention the stigma of walking around with a mattress strapped to your back. Also the CFC's involved in manufacturing the foam pad itself makes them about the least green, least recyclable, least biodegradeable climbing-related product on the market.

Maybe ThermaRest, the inflatable sleeping pad company, could be
approached for input as to how to make this happen. I think eventually someone will come up with a better idea, and we will all look back and laugh (like we do now about lycra in the 80's) about how ridiculous we all looked carrying mattresses around...

Agreed. Technology is advancing rapidly and climbing equipment is only getting more specialized. Flashed has an Air Pad that is actually quite effective in dispersing the force associated with long falls, however like you said, a design like this is quite heavy to carry...

Corey said...
Have you considered a strap on the top for those of us who like to pad stack and carry multiple pads?

Honestly, we haven't for this model. We feel that it's big enough as is, and when we make the final tweaks (including perhaps a new foam combination), it will clock in around 15 pounds. However, I've seen some creatively simple ways to incorporate what you're talking about, so I'll look into it when I'm in Boise this Monday.

Anonymous said...
Do you plan on double stitching where the shoulder straps connect to the pad? That always seems to be a weak point on crash pads, mainly when carrying a second pad strapped to it. Pad looks awesome and the weight is unreal for a pad that size.

Macca said...
That is one sweet looking prototype! Globally sounds good, try getting a few over to Australia if you can. We are seriously starved of good climbing gear over here!
Send me an email through the contact form on my website and we'll see about getting some over there. Glad you like the look so far!

Anonymous said...
looks rad.
any idea what the price is going to look like?

Stay tuned for the answer to this. We will be discussing it on my next trip to Boise, on Monday. We expect to launch a Pre-Order option very soon.

Jay said...
Wow the pad looks great!

Looks like it has highballs covered. Perhaps a small matt for cleaning the soles of your shoes would be handy also.
Good luck
Sydney OZ

Done. Thanks!

gian said...
wicked pit protector feature!!!

Thanks! It works well!

a bit skeptical about the lightness...
in my very limited experience light pad=crap foam. Heavy pad=sturdy, durable foam.
It's a compromise...

Fair enough. We are using the same foam combination as the old Gunther right now, which held up great. I've been using the Gunther for the past 2 years and the foam is still in great shape. However, we are looking into some different options for foam combinations to help with high impact falls. I'll let you know what we come up with next week.

jack said...
Rad I could definitely use one of these. I like the backpack feature and the straps to keep the pad level. How does it feel to have your own signature pad?
Glad you like what you see. I'm not usually one to do the whole signature line thing. This is a first. As weird as it feels, it's been a joy to work so closely with the design and production team to churn out a great new product.

Stay tuned for the results of the next prototype....


  1. I've not been bouldering for long, but where we go, the landing is usually on a sloped ground. We've been trying to attach thin ropes to the corners to avoid the pad sliding down the hill and to keep it in check. It would be great if on the corners of the pad there could be small straps/loops so that a thin rope could be attached (the other end to trees, rocks or whatever is around... ). Don't know... just an idea...

  2. I'm voting for more grab handles!

  3. n my winter trip to bishop, i noticed a moon pad that had a zipper that covered the straps on the back. i feel like this would be very useful, since when padding rocks, the pad is upside down because it bends naturally that way, but i always trip over the straps. maybe thats just me being clumsy, but it would be nice to have something over them. also, since many people do put the pads upside down depending on the surface, you might be able to make a sort of hamburger of foam, closed cell, open cell, closed cell, instead of just closed on top and open on bottom. im not sure of the physics and what this would mean in terms of bottoming out, but itd be nice since i tend to bottom out much more easily when its upside down (hence the design so you dont when its right side up) anyways, just a few thoughts. the foam is probably financially not very possible, which is very understandable, but some way to cover the straps shouldnt add too much weight, since that seems to be one of your main points, to keep it light. keep up the good work!

  4. How about a possibility to cover/protect the carrying system somehow? When laid out in the wet ground (grass and mud) the carrying systems get soaking wet and it is really annoying to put it on you back again. All of us are not hugging stone in the desert You know :)

  5. This looks a lot like my my 6'x4' voodoo, which has been a really good pad. The massive size of these pads seems to eliminate most issues with covering landings. My voodoo probably weighs twice as much as this does and the only issue i have with that is that it never sits flush against my back because all the weight, keeping the casing really tight around the foam seems to be a MUST for massive pads to keep them usable. the pit protector would be a great addition to any pad. Its nice to see so much testing going into a climbing product.

  6. So Kevin. You're up on the wall now and probably not out testing new prototypes, unless you hit up some of the Yosemite bouldering (which you very well might just for a break from the big wall). When can we expect this new pad out, or some more info on it? Super psyched

  7. I have an old Metolius pad and the closure straps are super long. This allows you to extend them all the way out (so that the two halves of the pad are at roughly 90 degrees to each other) and use the whole thing as a couch. This is an awesome feature and I don't know why I haven't seen it more widely adopted. It has definitely made me the envy of other climbers at the campsite over the years. Look forward to seeing the finished product!