Friday, February 19, 2010

New Signature Asana Crash Pad: Phase 2-Prototypes

Here are the first images of the prototype I am testing here in Bishop, CA. Not too bad for a first go, eh?! Yesterday I took the pad on a 100 problem circuit at the Buttermilks. I was very pleased with my ability to easily move from boulder to boulder using the handles and carrying it as a suitcase. The gear pack held a few pair of shoes, a community chalk bucket, my wallet and keys, food and water. Most of all, the pad is light: about 13 pounds, making it the lightest pad for its size on the market (in this prototype stage).


66" x 44" x 5"

"Pit Protector" straps keep the pad rigid over uneven landings

Clip in gear pack for all your bouldering needs


"Pit Protector" straps always stay attached. Just tighten and loosen the D rings as needed.


Cam Buckle closures are SUPER durable and easy to use

Totally redesigned carrying system. Fat shoulder and waist straps carefully positioned to fit both short and tall torsos.


KJ Signature Asana Crash Pad.



I'll be in Bishop for a few more days of testing before we send the results back to Asana for another round of prototypes. In the next post, I'll go over how some of the features are working out, what we are going to change for the next prototype, and hopefully, a timeline for it's release. As always, feel free to comment if you want to see a feature added that you don't see here already. We'll take it into consideration!

Thanks,
KJ

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

New Signature Asana Crash Pad: Phase 1-Concepts

I’ve been bouldering for about 12 years now. In this time, you think that I would come across a crash pad that I LOVE. One that is durable, comfortable to carry, has great features, isn’t too big, too small and looks good. Well, this is where working with a great company like Asana comes in handy. I’ve been working with Asana since 2006. I’ve used their crash pads on every boulder problem I have done since then, big and small. I’ve taken 25 foot diggers in Bishop, back-flops in Hueco, and patent-pending “tuck n’ roll” ass rockets from the 30 foot range. Every time I have walked away. My pad of choice in all of these years has been the “Gunther Highball.” It’s 5 inches thick and 5.5 feet by 3.6 feet. In my opinion, it’s a great size. Not to big or small. Despite being a great pad to land on, the Gunther was in need of a serious make over. So, after summer Outdoor Retailer, I went up to Boise, ID for 4 days to design my “perfect” crash pad.

Designing a new product takes time. It’s a process. It takes good communication between the athletes (testers), designers and producers. Compromises need to be made by all parties, egos need to be left at the door, and the common goal of making the best product possible must always remain the focus. We have broken this process down into 5 stages.

1: Concepts

2: Prototypes

3: Testing

4: Revising

5: Completion

We are in the thick of this process right now and I want to bring everyone who reads this blog along with me. I’m going to write a post on each stage of the process until we have a finished product. If you think we are missing a key feature, leave a comment and let us know what you want to see in YOUR perfect crash pad.

To begin, let’s look at the conceptual stage. Highball crash pads are classically heavy, bulky, and uncomfortable to carry. I wanted to fix all of these issues without compromising durability. So, I began drawing and listing all of the features I wanted to address:

  • Carrying system: Needs to be comfortable with a heavy load, have wide but thin shoulder and waist straps to distribute the weight, a chest strap, and carefully chosen torso measurement so the pad may be carried with comfort by short and tall climbers alike. The shoulder and waist straps need to positioned low enough on the pad so not to hit the bottom of the pad when hiking on a steep trail, but not so low that the pad it top heavy.
  • Closure system: No flaps. Instead, incorporate a gear pack that clips in. Needs to be simple and durable. No plastic. No clips or hooks. Needs to maintain the ability to hold tension over time.
  • Functionality: Need to create a bouldering system, a few select products that work well together and go out bouldering with you every time. By eliminating the closure flaps, we simplify. To keep gear from falling out, we should add a bouldering pack that clips into and comes with each pad. Needs big handles for moving around. Needs carpet somewhere on pad for wiping shoes.
  • Aesthetics: Big, bold color. Simple.
With these items in mind, I began imagining, drawing, listing, discussing, debating, measuring, and eventually, cutting material to make the pad.
The Drawing Board

Sketching......

Measure twice, cut once....

John Albright, Asana Head Designer

Cutting the new pad template...

I just received my first prototype and I'm currently in Bishop, CA with fellow Asana athlete Charlie Barrett and Asana Team Captain Ryan Held testing it out. Stay tuned for the first images of the new Signature crash pad. I must say, I'm proud of it.

Progression Soundrack

The guys over at Big Up Productions have released the soundtrack to Progression. I'm listening to it now and it definitely gets me psyched to get out of the coffee shop and up to the Buttermilks. In fact, I'm off. But go check it out. It's well worth it: http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/store/Progression_OST/

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

PURE as HD Download


I just got an email from Chuck Fryberger telling me that his 2009 release, PURE, is now available as an HD Download! I just downloaded the file and the quality is outstanding. Click this link to download it: PURE HD DOWNLOAD

Enjoy!!

KJ

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Spectre

After many years of work, it all clicked!


Video coming soon!

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Sorry for the lack of posts lately. While I was in Yosemite working on Mescalito with Tommy, all of our updates went to the Black Diamond website. You can check out all the dispatches we sent in here:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/bd-athletes-kevin-jorgeson-and-tommy-caldwell-attempt-a-new-free-route-on-el-capitandispatch-5

After climbing super technical, dead vertical granite for two months, I'm working on getting my steep bouldering power back. After Christmas, I'm going to take at trip out to Bishop to hopefully climb Spectre, a problem I have been trying for YEARS, but haven't finished up. To me, it's a dream line: house sized boulder, the only way up, obvious jug start, interesting and difficult moves on perfect rock, a variety of cruxes and styles, and a tall but not hard finish. I can't wait!


Andy Mann Photo: www.andymann.com

Monday, October 5, 2009

Packing for Yosemite.....



Leaving Wednesday. Can't wait to get on the wall. A menacing elbow tendonitis injury seemed to resurface, so I'm hoping that it won't hold me back too much. Talk about bad timing! Let the adventure begin!