tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29322997608218615172024-02-07T20:25:18.935-08:00Kevin Jorgesonkjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.comBlogger85125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-30849819908161681912012-11-10T11:03:00.000-08:002012-11-10T11:03:23.609-08:00A Trip of a Lifetime<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Well, after 19 days and 226 miles, we survived the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon! That may be a little dramatic, but the trip was not without serious adventure. The whitewater on the Colorado River is big, fast, and cold. All of these rapids went smoothly with one exception: Horn Creek. </div>
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For some reason, this rapid had our number. 3 of our 5 rafts had swimmers on this rapid, and I managed to flip my boat! Whitewater rafting is a lot like climbing. The big rapids have a very specific sequence in order to make it through safely. If you get off line (mess up the sequence), you're in trouble. Entering Horn Creek Rapid, I felt that my position and angles were correct. Unfortunately I was wrong. Very wrong. Instead of pulling wide of a huge hole in river center, we hit it square. I lost my grip on the right oar, which prevented me from correcting our drift toward a huge boulder. I screamed "high side!" as soon as I saw what was going to happen, but it was no use. Over we went into the cold, loud, viscous river. The boat before us had the oarsman fall out and the boat after us had their passenger fall out! We all escaped with some bumps and bruises, but no major damage. Whew!</div>
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As a climber, I was particularly interested in the geology at the bottom of the canyon. Depending on where you are, the quality and type of the rock varies dramatically. My favorite features were the Muav Limestone in Marble Canyon, the Redwall Cavern, and the Vishnu Shist. These all provided unique and fun bouldering opportunities, including a little "deep water soloing" right out of the raft! </div>
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I'm now back in Yosemite for my fourth season on the Dawn Wall Project with Tommy Caldwell and new team member Jonathan Siegrist! I'll post an update about this shortly. Until then, enjoy the following photos from the Grand Canyon! </div>
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KJ</div>
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kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-29890332581535805432012-10-08T08:17:00.002-07:002012-10-08T08:28:25.879-07:00A Grand Adventure<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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For more than 20 years, my dad has been on the wait list for a private permit to raft down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. I grew up rafting. Some of my earliest memories are on the river or next to a river. As far back as I can recall these rafting trips, I also remember hearing how some day, we were going to raft the mighty Colorado River. Well, that day is finally here! This is not a commercial trip. We are guiding ourselves, packing our own stuff, and responsible for our own safety. We wouldn't have it any other way!<br />
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Here are a few photos on the road to the Grand Canyon:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This appears to be an early attempt at guiding. My brother is the one with no front teeth.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are clearly a well coordinated team.....</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matt hams it up for the camera while I scout the next rapid....or the boulders on the shoreline....</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulling hard away from some rock on the South Fork of the American River</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hit it straight! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhox84HaAO_LxuLyCPJwppqlgUDt3hSJ2yAdvzAP-DdA2FaD1SgcsH7ktkaSEqLsyWxYMUrNDMaZrExsE61RyYKBMEse2jDWWWHxlZFseoVcWGP71jeNNWVbeTPjoxiSRQpv42OqZJtTwk/s1600/333313_3362982393957_844101561_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhox84HaAO_LxuLyCPJwppqlgUDt3hSJ2yAdvzAP-DdA2FaD1SgcsH7ktkaSEqLsyWxYMUrNDMaZrExsE61RyYKBMEse2jDWWWHxlZFseoVcWGP71jeNNWVbeTPjoxiSRQpv42OqZJtTwk/s640/333313_3362982393957_844101561_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearly losing Matt! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgNiy3LRVNZ3g4oqR4YSYk56WjL5tJfqysKztC7UHte-xF-4LxTkjfwTs5HAtlaSEjUrhzA_kHjwjFgXOaaE5fmwGUFXTiPfSMgaPyLBsXfFjO5bH2jpBqitUccV49Ld29bv15hqeRa9c/s1600/253550_1747500807927_6891872_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgNiy3LRVNZ3g4oqR4YSYk56WjL5tJfqysKztC7UHte-xF-4LxTkjfwTs5HAtlaSEjUrhzA_kHjwjFgXOaaE5fmwGUFXTiPfSMgaPyLBsXfFjO5bH2jpBqitUccV49Ld29bv15hqeRa9c/s640/253550_1747500807927_6891872_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Dad (Eric) and Brother (Matt) on a 5 day trip down the Eel River in Northern California </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFVxQr8WadFmHztxarRLd5pI-0BF-rzMwU2WaDDrvG5ta24Ut9BlVwVJdGJ9HfUDIl7W7AFphmtuY2r4Yj0Z0JwrPWkVgO5n9y5QYpP0y-Zo3fvGDVxDw2-Ddk__SwWeJP7Cusl4EEKRc/s1600/251115_1747501927955_4187321_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFVxQr8WadFmHztxarRLd5pI-0BF-rzMwU2WaDDrvG5ta24Ut9BlVwVJdGJ9HfUDIl7W7AFphmtuY2r4Yj0Z0JwrPWkVgO5n9y5QYpP0y-Zo3fvGDVxDw2-Ddk__SwWeJP7Cusl4EEKRc/s640/251115_1747501927955_4187321_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">The master "River Rat" himself, ninja of reading the rapids, efficient systems, and guide mentor, dad </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuarr2DupLf1_pqs69rqsosabWxk-wlD2hSFXfnnKm_l-Sk2UJ7fM0Ej8UvNhyphenhyphen3nEd8XS1tzzuiardhVhp3enfPsoVzC47OvywJUAcAmNFBg-6lEUQstFZlSG08EaLaf3DyatooR_YUdY/s1600/253740_1747502727975_8040466_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuarr2DupLf1_pqs69rqsosabWxk-wlD2hSFXfnnKm_l-Sk2UJ7fM0Ej8UvNhyphenhyphen3nEd8XS1tzzuiardhVhp3enfPsoVzC47OvywJUAcAmNFBg-6lEUQstFZlSG08EaLaf3DyatooR_YUdY/s640/253740_1747502727975_8040466_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a long day on the river, a cold one and talking smack is in order</td></tr>
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Now that the trip is finally here, I've been studying up on the river and its rapids like its the Dawn Wall Project. I'll be rowing one of the five 18' rafts we have for the trip. The of the major rapids have their myth, their story, and their promise to dump you and your gear into the cold dark water if you don't run it right. Here's what it looks like to get a little sideways in the infamous "Lava Falls..."<br />
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So, for the next 19 days, starting today, I'll be completely off the radar. I'm can hardly wait to be all rigged and on the river! </div>
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Now, it just so happens that our trip is taking place during the entire month of October, which is prime Dawn Wall season. After months of deliberation over whether to just do the Dawn Wall, just do the Canyon, or to hike out of the Canyon after 7 days, I've obviously decided to do the entire river trip. While both trips are incredibly important to me, this trip down the Colorado with family is truly once in a lifetime. </div>
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After talking with Tommy, we have decided to grow the Dawn Wall team and take more of an expedition approach. With more than two team members, we will have more energy, more back up, more talent, and all around good times on the wall. So, we are super happy to have Jonathan Siegrist joining the team! Jonathan is such an awesome guy, with such great talents, Tommy and I couldn't be happier to have him up on the wall with us. If you're not already following Jonathan, be sure to check out his great site: http://www.jstarinorbit.com. For the month of October, Tommy and Jonathan will be battling away on the crux pitches. As soon as I get off the river at the end of October, I'll be driving straight to Yosemite to join them! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the most stunning pitches I've ever climbed on....pitch 16</td></tr>
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Well, as soon as I click Publish, I'll be putting the finishing touches on packing and driving to Lee's Ferry with the crew to put in on the river! I'll be exploring the vast amount of rock down there as well, so hopefully when I emerge from the canyon, I'll have some stories and photos to share of not just the rapids and camp life, but of some great climbing as well. </div>
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Cheers everybody. And thank you all for the birthday wishes! </div>
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KJ</div>
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kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-77420540084450425542012-03-31T11:37:00.004-07:002012-03-31T12:53:31.160-07:00Photos from PCI Clinic in San DiegoThis past weekend, I was at <a href="http://www.mesarim.com/">Mesa Rim Climbing and Fitness Center</a> in San Diego, CA for the <a href="http://clinics.proclimbers.com/">PCI Clinic</a> with Daniel Woods, Ethan Pringle and Angie Payne. What a roster! The participants were PSYCHED and the community showed tremendous support and energy. Daniel, Angie and Ethan did an amazing job instructing, once again demonstrating that the world's best climbers can also be world class instructors. "I was really impressed with all the instructors ability to articulate advanced forms of movement, complex movements, in a way that’s very assessable to different levels of climbing" said Ian McIntosh, general manager and co-owner of Mesa Rim.<div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: 100%; ">We worked with climbers of all ages and abilities over the weekend. I was really impressed with all the participants. It takes humility to accept that we can learn from another climber. Climbers are a stubborn bunch, by nature. It should be noted that the athletes who teach PCI Clinics bring the same amount of humility. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: 100%; "><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: 100%; ">"</span><span style="font-size: 100%; ">I’ve been climbing now for 17 years and I continue to learn. I learned a lot at this clinic and one of the beauties of our sport is the learning progression we all go through" said Daniel after the clinic was over. Angie shared a similar sentiment. "</span><span style="font-size: 100%; ">I’ve always known that I can continue to learn, but this just reminds me. It’s really humbling. Even after climbing for 15 years, I’m still learning every single day. Every group that came through I learned more and more."</span><p class="p2"><span class="s1"></span>Here are a few video stills we shot over the weekend. Keep an eye out for a few videos we hope to have edited in the coming week or so. In the meantime, enjoy the photos and a big thank you goes out to our amazing Partner gym, Mesa Rim.</p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCircnY-xpj8xg2JyGVeWIZxTh06pi5tLtV0Q0Iu2kXQJ2aA5Flju5qUhj3Mv-aKIFR-6zPDkEFersoO9OMUSJLnpLTTIp1ALoJEnAXC21j2ASNz6nr1axZ8p6u77iAYHQ1jQsF_g9GHQ/s1600/Image1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCircnY-xpj8xg2JyGVeWIZxTh06pi5tLtV0Q0Iu2kXQJ2aA5Flju5qUhj3Mv-aKIFR-6zPDkEFersoO9OMUSJLnpLTTIp1ALoJEnAXC21j2ASNz6nr1axZ8p6u77iAYHQ1jQsF_g9GHQ/s400/Image1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726133062377478210" /></a>Daniel Woods taught The Plumb Line and Deadpoint Station over the course of the weekend. </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNSp7IZSEfLwo90d_7R4vFz18ksYegXyUe1bAGlFX1RoFIdKhqho2yaxf4yvz7Sl1XXbeA4Mv3AMu5AS0Ax9t3_XD-uma-JgehXuiIGgnAzxNioQeCqF3wqWbk20DhLvBuAUG9ffuBHg/s1600/Image4-1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNSp7IZSEfLwo90d_7R4vFz18ksYegXyUe1bAGlFX1RoFIdKhqho2yaxf4yvz7Sl1XXbeA4Mv3AMu5AS0Ax9t3_XD-uma-JgehXuiIGgnAzxNioQeCqF3wqWbk20DhLvBuAUG9ffuBHg/s400/Image4-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726133057383163634" /></a>Here Angie Payne works with John Raber, one of our many participants during our sold out Sunday Clinic. </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ys15C_mWpIJOb_6dL9Boba7VQ1-TorTsfxBiU3SXPgp8h4iht1D-9MNf7m8gHqmmXyv45eG0gpBb5euNv_Uf5M3T72VT9CE1uBAU6n0gHkHEOEM7QVln4hZ7IMookP4UuMBGhQRRf6E/s1600/Image18.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ys15C_mWpIJOb_6dL9Boba7VQ1-TorTsfxBiU3SXPgp8h4iht1D-9MNf7m8gHqmmXyv45eG0gpBb5euNv_Uf5M3T72VT9CE1uBAU6n0gHkHEOEM7QVln4hZ7IMookP4UuMBGhQRRf6E/s400/Image18.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726133051745382066" /></a>Daniel explains Deadpoints to a group of young, eager, and talented kids. </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBBuSHfMOSadqu6xZvkj_q5t-QrvNYOp7Llgjda6gHJVS6zmmhmnlmRRJhP64C7WX1vn7XE8Z8MzVOa6_Bjg9tNa-xpgJlXm22O9aZP4Zxt8f7RgF7WgXgUJmmTwNFKEoVxlKzGsLx-sA/s1600/Image13.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBBuSHfMOSadqu6xZvkj_q5t-QrvNYOp7Llgjda6gHJVS6zmmhmnlmRRJhP64C7WX1vn7XE8Z8MzVOa6_Bjg9tNa-xpgJlXm22O9aZP4Zxt8f7RgF7WgXgUJmmTwNFKEoVxlKzGsLx-sA/s400/Image13.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726133051242901202" /></a>Ilia Talalai, a Mesa Rim staff member who took the clinic to improve his setting and teaching skills, sticks a massive Pogo. </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjel4V7RWHhwI8rNzMRV5rbowM_xqmkz68XVjbAT80bDmKNlmf6ghY4MRD4yojqkTSjbOAU_xjb3gsKOfJYCaAO4bQFUOqQTaKBwHgpcMOOylPfOwuMt7b0KI708e92382roHU4wGnyAkg/s1600/Image11.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjel4V7RWHhwI8rNzMRV5rbowM_xqmkz68XVjbAT80bDmKNlmf6ghY4MRD4yojqkTSjbOAU_xjb3gsKOfJYCaAO4bQFUOqQTaKBwHgpcMOOylPfOwuMt7b0KI708e92382roHU4wGnyAkg/s400/Image11.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726133046255350002" /></a>Mesa Rim General Manager and co-owner Ian McIntosh compares and contrasts the back step with the pogo at the Pogo Station with Angie and I. Hint: when the foot hold is too low to generate momentum and lift on a long move, a pogo is the way to go. </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeoTWfCJof7bQQxYnsAFgt-seiJKMts9JTjd_mzmAMqOhFWkmReU75mdTSTsVYf7zl0GOi1ceX66vyQT2Q1WoL1pSnjgxCJukYxbnV97y8Ptu28ELmt3YPqYkFgfb8Iif39rUWw-wzyQ/s1600/Image19.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeoTWfCJof7bQQxYnsAFgt-seiJKMts9JTjd_mzmAMqOhFWkmReU75mdTSTsVYf7zl0GOi1ceX66vyQT2Q1WoL1pSnjgxCJukYxbnV97y8Ptu28ELmt3YPqYkFgfb8Iif39rUWw-wzyQ/s400/Image19.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726132719353700962" /></a>Ethan taught the very popular Dyno Station over the weekend, which resulted in equal parts of smiles and flappers.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaUOmhAmkJMz1J1KO5tTx4bBhQtPUh0tCAgZffK_3UIqYjwVcTan1Bbjvm-EmgNQFzZ0Ds5Km_TUkwSi_bQabWlrW5n94XUxtubkSRpWnrDuzHwsLatectJu9DbyCnz9dCGqcZ8GrcEEU/s1600/471251_421797374503016_100000182725386_1859097_877856678_o.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaUOmhAmkJMz1J1KO5tTx4bBhQtPUh0tCAgZffK_3UIqYjwVcTan1Bbjvm-EmgNQFzZ0Ds5Km_TUkwSi_bQabWlrW5n94XUxtubkSRpWnrDuzHwsLatectJu9DbyCnz9dCGqcZ8GrcEEU/s400/471251_421797374503016_100000182725386_1859097_877856678_o.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726148129013609714" /></a>Dana Andersen won the award for most psyche and most flappers. "I got 10 and half flappers from this clinic. They were totally worth every single one of them." Based on that face, I believe him.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ED8O3OCaYWbFdWTvHeTyFOenPUhVbT0so9_p9KfnjaW0cJZUpGl40pJ5uLU4rQbcOt2R3W6pii6ceLCM4uUiInblfQTiC9sGHDk0gWAIFHRRJ3E0M6mQ74GNA-1wJiSv-Op97QmhB58/s1600/Image21.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ED8O3OCaYWbFdWTvHeTyFOenPUhVbT0so9_p9KfnjaW0cJZUpGl40pJ5uLU4rQbcOt2R3W6pii6ceLCM4uUiInblfQTiC9sGHDk0gWAIFHRRJ3E0M6mQ74GNA-1wJiSv-Op97QmhB58/s400/Image21.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726132711884215762" /></a>I think it's fair to say that Nekaia Sanders is PSYCHED to get her special edition PCI posters signed by Daniel, Angie and Ethan.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp06jPxfSLLS0i7AtZImSV4_q06PUdreAhqWHai8m_CeeAsyr13-YQiUhh05K_qWVp2Lwen8RLeYM3cQFttWaMAj0tbEoXO1ib0dskgCmswrLJWMygOSHv2oKUzaC1v_gcK725sF7tO3E/s1600/Image22.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp06jPxfSLLS0i7AtZImSV4_q06PUdreAhqWHai8m_CeeAsyr13-YQiUhh05K_qWVp2Lwen8RLeYM3cQFttWaMAj0tbEoXO1ib0dskgCmswrLJWMygOSHv2oKUzaC1v_gcK725sF7tO3E/s400/Image22.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726132699876379730" /></a>Each day begins with a short discussion about the structure and approach to the clinic. If you haven't been to a PCI Clinic before, we split groups of 24 into equal groups of 8, based on ability. These three groups then rotate between three stations that each athlete teaches throughout the day. Participants spend 45 minutes with each station, get to climb and learn from all three athletes, and there are 6 stations total.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfP3Okkch0s5Gd1_758KyPAF0ZqwjmVM44ZiE8fdzrOMkY6FcbHuPHePK3M8cbajFXB4jcJ7KbuhSoqUYbm-7L8r87KIRNibxdDq-LfkM5GHG0rEexn2WJ_LMy90n1LnMCdF8Ieu8Hb8/s1600/Image15.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfP3Okkch0s5Gd1_758KyPAF0ZqwjmVM44ZiE8fdzrOMkY6FcbHuPHePK3M8cbajFXB4jcJ7KbuhSoqUYbm-7L8r87KIRNibxdDq-LfkM5GHG0rEexn2WJ_LMy90n1LnMCdF8Ieu8Hb8/s400/Image15.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726132695641269890" /></a>Nekaia got a proper flapper on the Dyno Station with Ethan. We taped it up quick and she was back on the wall, impressing everyone in the building with her talent. </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzXptzOBvxf5Et9gUVCRKnehwUSDP9IcYxi2pxwdEct4QNAr4BW37fD0VMpFiDrK2s_okgojebzzuXjSkR9rnql1rlJxgWNMOimNNwuuKcS4arzCUNqnzR9HxJL4uvn755HComaSaX2w/s1600/Image12.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzXptzOBvxf5Et9gUVCRKnehwUSDP9IcYxi2pxwdEct4QNAr4BW37fD0VMpFiDrK2s_okgojebzzuXjSkR9rnql1rlJxgWNMOimNNwuuKcS4arzCUNqnzR9HxJL4uvn755HComaSaX2w/s400/Image12.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726132698186847874" /></a>The Pogo is a unique and relatively new-school technique. Here I explain the importance of the leg kick to generate the momentum necessary to cover large distances between holds.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIMYX2A-l6836Gom5Yc7BmIBnTdvsv-xPUs8ntb8aH0CZr7iSFhYv-_Mun6nN3t5cWJNjdHDvd3Z7-zKfM68TeDV4tyfi8X2hZ7b4_ydnJMuWZPOIX7g5A42Zfx5rPE3ylpTzzhfuUm7w/s1600/Image10.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIMYX2A-l6836Gom5Yc7BmIBnTdvsv-xPUs8ntb8aH0CZr7iSFhYv-_Mun6nN3t5cWJNjdHDvd3Z7-zKfM68TeDV4tyfi8X2hZ7b4_ydnJMuWZPOIX7g5A42Zfx5rPE3ylpTzzhfuUm7w/s400/Image10.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726132470329301650" /></a>Here we are getting ready to transition from station to the next.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYFwTjDjYHdJqP8_uSYfe3O1hm-h0XselZ4QWJnBnz8gNW6mJ-Z7qaiSghliKOkZ8dnsqM2Mqk22mvMXrW4hTdxk7fbhE0UaPNGJJC6UmFzKt9KezhyI-q-Z6-M5W0eOBWYfQgCJZj9Dk/s1600/Image8.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYFwTjDjYHdJqP8_uSYfe3O1hm-h0XselZ4QWJnBnz8gNW6mJ-Z7qaiSghliKOkZ8dnsqM2Mqk22mvMXrW4hTdxk7fbhE0UaPNGJJC6UmFzKt9KezhyI-q-Z6-M5W0eOBWYfQgCJZj9Dk/s400/Image8.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726132463416300562" /></a>Here, the king of flappers himself, Dana, executes perfect form on the Plumb Line Station with Daniel. Note the straight right arm, arched back, left foot back step, and smeared trailing leg. Well done!</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw_8OZ8msmWdjU8V7XAp8L_UZBD3V_X-8b8C9tmemeCjiK4KbhUmDOzCAqrxhvFkgKLNGihOeSt8bpJoE39-k9bK1YOp1KARzM5kavS8dtDpkmyJbhjNWxCvCeXgpOopBl6_lDxjQwwc8/s1600/Image7.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw_8OZ8msmWdjU8V7XAp8L_UZBD3V_X-8b8C9tmemeCjiK4KbhUmDOzCAqrxhvFkgKLNGihOeSt8bpJoE39-k9bK1YOp1KARzM5kavS8dtDpkmyJbhjNWxCvCeXgpOopBl6_lDxjQwwc8/s400/Image7.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726132461996945266" /></a>Angie was great at correcting form while teaching the Wave of Extension Station. Here, Nekaia get's into position. </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT9hF6jaO23AnkKcwlcczqsECGiEQ7HFzOV_rAFU2uiqJGNyMb9j8Bb4CgzSiOh7pWNzxa_ZSOTIg8Xux9WQx6d-XOAfXbqDlLcmeT4IuLmR1BqiGfudKEFuEH-o7i4CwKun_-4Ayh3xw/s1600/Image3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT9hF6jaO23AnkKcwlcczqsECGiEQ7HFzOV_rAFU2uiqJGNyMb9j8Bb4CgzSiOh7pWNzxa_ZSOTIg8Xux9WQx6d-XOAfXbqDlLcmeT4IuLmR1BqiGfudKEFuEH-o7i4CwKun_-4Ayh3xw/s400/Image3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726132456128388178" /></a>Instant video analysis is a great learning and teaching tool we employ at PCI Clinics. Here Angie and Faith observe her last attempt at the Wave of Extension Station before trying again. </div><div><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEZGD9VIWO-eESamKdjqn29S4IAXD_S068LEYnMsqYkMdzAeXStEfciPgPyW0Nf0UEHKSeTsB2bC-hu2Uww3j8ECdLUQP1Y3baQBXLPwouhsaCMzznl2F0fDrNcsAxrliXTRgvdxoxl10/s1600/Image2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEZGD9VIWO-eESamKdjqn29S4IAXD_S068LEYnMsqYkMdzAeXStEfciPgPyW0Nf0UEHKSeTsB2bC-hu2Uww3j8ECdLUQP1Y3baQBXLPwouhsaCMzznl2F0fDrNcsAxrliXTRgvdxoxl10/s400/Image2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5726132451910537794" /></a>Daniel was great at explaining how the position of the foothold, relative to the Plumb Line, effects your body position on the wall. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-78371151886251285762012-03-12T14:32:00.004-07:002012-03-12T14:57:15.708-07:00San Diego Special Event!Hey Everyone!<div>I'm happy to say that on March 23, 24, and 25, I will be at Mesa Rim Climbing and Fitness Center with Angie Payne, Daniel Woods, and Ethan Pringle! Aside from being great friends, this is a class act gathering of athletes who are all super stoked to work and climb with the community in Southern California. </div><div><br /></div><div>On Friday night, we will be helping out with a fundraiser for Outdoor Outreach. On Saturday, from 10am-4pm, we will be running a Youth Clinic. On Sunday, from 10am-4pm, we will be running an Adult Clinic. This is a great opportunity to make friends with and learn from these athletes, all of whom placed either 1st or 2nd at ABS Nationals this month!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIIQ8mV39yrrnA3MG360GV3h0dVS02baJt-UdC723j1JQzUtyrA46Fm3_Vt2JJsA4wuseUghD1IFcWkVVGHpTph8-UkL6c7yq7g8gZQ3cqm-mXZpDDgdoU-Z33ep7mRhycmW3wJcbx-0Q/s1600/SanDiegoPoster.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 264px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIIQ8mV39yrrnA3MG360GV3h0dVS02baJt-UdC723j1JQzUtyrA46Fm3_Vt2JJsA4wuseUghD1IFcWkVVGHpTph8-UkL6c7yq7g8gZQ3cqm-mXZpDDgdoU-Z33ep7mRhycmW3wJcbx-0Q/s400/SanDiegoPoster.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5719127620858228514" /></a></div><div>You can lock in a $50 savings by signing up BEFORE THIS FRIDAY at <a href="http://www.proclimbers.com/">www.proclimbers.com</a>! </div><div><br /></div><div>The 6-hour clinic is all about technique and movement, using PCI's own "Station" teaching method. Not only do participants get the experience of getting to know the athletes in a small group setting, but you get to genuinely improve your climbing. We have worked long and hard to analyze our climbing styles, and to develop an effective teaching curriculum. We are proud of the product and believe you will be impressed by the results as well. </div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHO1QIAuaH5UB5CK2B83Ob7dJqfkm81u_hngW43BZzIMKfVuteG_LDq2klcPN3zxOpv9GneV-jJb26yQbSllz_yvdHTvRniblGUBaY3e2XiFXhlyq6rOtMriBWUmzIHV5nxMDdVSyexg8/s1600/Pic1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHO1QIAuaH5UB5CK2B83Ob7dJqfkm81u_hngW43BZzIMKfVuteG_LDq2klcPN3zxOpv9GneV-jJb26yQbSllz_yvdHTvRniblGUBaY3e2XiFXhlyq6rOtMriBWUmzIHV5nxMDdVSyexg8/s400/Pic1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5719129440960937106" /></a>Me and Alex Johnson teaching The Plumb Line and Heel Hooking at Planet Granite in San Francisco. <div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPkLuA7UUzPdOwk7bqHlqwqI4INS4J33yV86XOOlC2fwvYh0Jzr_g3rN9o-_-qmVbxKVueW43f0DB9sQPrqr4_ARTedxFKF4ndtxcU46s7XkagPIMCnW6cy83s6AdjO6MMs1jT-hzChzo/s1600/Pic5.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPkLuA7UUzPdOwk7bqHlqwqI4INS4J33yV86XOOlC2fwvYh0Jzr_g3rN9o-_-qmVbxKVueW43f0DB9sQPrqr4_ARTedxFKF4ndtxcU46s7XkagPIMCnW6cy83s6AdjO6MMs1jT-hzChzo/s400/Pic5.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5719129431551203874" /></a>The PCI Mantle Station - Midnight Lightning here you come!</div><div><br /></div><div>This is only a small sampling of the Clinic Stations we teach at each clinic. Regardless of your climbing ability, I can personally guarantee that you will learn something that improves your climbing. We have had v0 climbers and youth national champions climbing side by side at a clinic, with both climbers taking away huge amounts of useful insight into technique and movement. Pretty cool and very rewarding for us as athletes.</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 18px; text-align: -webkit-auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); ">"</span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 18px; text-align: -webkit-auto; ">I feel like my son learned more in one day than in an entire year of weekly lessons.</span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 18px; text-align: -webkit-auto; "> </span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 18px; text-align: -webkit-auto; ">From the organization of checking in, to the wrap up session and autograph signing, the entire event went flawlessly!"</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 18px; text-align: -webkit-auto; ">- Andrew Halford, SF Clinic</span></div><div><div><br /></div><div>You can find more information and sign up by visiting <a href="http://www.proclimbers.com">www.proclimbers.com</a> </div><div><br /></div><div>I hope to see you all there! If you have any question, feel free to hit me up at kevin@proclimbers.com!</div><div><br /></div><div>KJ</div></div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-15775108667557522462012-02-08T17:23:00.000-08:002012-02-08T17:27:35.827-08:00Special Offer for PCI Clinic<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdCy6E76YyMV3lTOZ5cQptGQ_kqd8xdudzZplrsT7ViDxpeDuM_FvKVI0MPAEv7ejcSXKOKGDIsj2kLKfhoPnZYeLgOgIuzCml8zNDkwDnJqeWlsQcmEtoMZUpm0vBk1K7meV1qfw_zus/s1600/asanaLogoT.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 329px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdCy6E76YyMV3lTOZ5cQptGQ_kqd8xdudzZplrsT7ViDxpeDuM_FvKVI0MPAEv7ejcSXKOKGDIsj2kLKfhoPnZYeLgOgIuzCml8zNDkwDnJqeWlsQcmEtoMZUpm0vBk1K7meV1qfw_zus/s400/asanaLogoT.gif" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706941372342870306" /></a><br />The next 6 people to sign up for the PCI Clinic or Semi-Private Lessons in San Francisco will receive 30% off their entire next order of Asana Climbing gear! Been wanting a new crash pad? This could save you $100 bucks! <div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.proclimbers.com/">www.proclimbers.com</a></div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-87254259560395109902012-02-07T14:13:00.000-08:002012-02-07T14:47:31.030-08:00Hey Bay Area Climbers!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlqmUZNrF-YIRI4HDFcbcrJpGImq5e5cAgBJp7FG0-Daf5_Pu2jTz2021HJpXSX__HCcjveYOoVR9RAMIxfdbfl3i2nDfS-RdTZHw4Yxf9PiIYuftK9p9pXxLjjM2WG-w53kdy7JrmhG0/s1600/PCI-SanFran-Poster-JPG.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 263px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlqmUZNrF-YIRI4HDFcbcrJpGImq5e5cAgBJp7FG0-Daf5_Pu2jTz2021HJpXSX__HCcjveYOoVR9RAMIxfdbfl3i2nDfS-RdTZHw4Yxf9PiIYuftK9p9pXxLjjM2WG-w53kdy7JrmhG0/s400/PCI-SanFran-Poster-JPG.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706528960169668626" /></a><br /><div>Hey Bay Area Climbers!</div><div><a href="http://www.proclimbers.com/">The PCI Clinic Series is coming back to San Francisco at Planet Granite! </a></div><div><br /></div><div>There are only a few spots left for Saturday's Youth Clinic and Adult Semi-Private lessons. Sunday is already SOLD OUT. </div><div><br /></div><div>This time, we will be having Steven Jeffery, Carlo Traversi, Beth Rodden and myself present to teach a 6-hour Youth Clinic and a 2-hour Adult Semi-Private lesson. All the details are below, but the short and sweet of it is:</div><div><br /></div><div>- The <a href="http://bit.ly/xNMciy">youth clinic</a> is going to focus on competition preparation and strategy. With ABS Nationals right around the corner, this is the opportunity to improve your competition game just in time for the big event. SIGN UP HERE: <a href="http://bit.ly/xNMciy">http://bit.ly/xNMciy</a></div><div><br /></div><div>- The <a href="http://bit.ly/wMHnZC">adult semi-private lesson</a> is going to focus on the art of the Pogo, the intricacies of Flagging, and how these both apply to boulder problems at your limit. Carlo Traversi calls the pogo "by far the most essential technique in my climbing." You can see a video of a pogo here:</div><div><a href="http://vimeo.com/channels/traversi#13752590">http://vimeo.com/channels/traversi#13752590</a></div><div>SIGN UP HERE: <a href="http://bit.ly/wMHnZC">http://bit.ly/wMHnZC</a></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzlt4ARNtJLPnyNwPQ4y1YjCi0azFlUSx7i4M3rE4fQGDqaAZfCtrENuKVVrzzzL26AzCjxy-fMM1qbCKUsrvF3NIw-Fge8WgsuimjP3tW-8MFII5n9xLtmQV1A35sqtp-I86nVsVhyphenhyphene8/s1600/PCI-SanFran-Postcard-Front-JPG.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 277px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzlt4ARNtJLPnyNwPQ4y1YjCi0azFlUSx7i4M3rE4fQGDqaAZfCtrENuKVVrzzzL26AzCjxy-fMM1qbCKUsrvF3NIw-Fge8WgsuimjP3tW-8MFII5n9xLtmQV1A35sqtp-I86nVsVhyphenhyphene8/s400/PCI-SanFran-Postcard-Front-JPG.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706521219781975362" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWQPhHm0MgMw6ZuqxOQMwDGtsOoaWtNFeMDnXjIbDeYwjWMyEs09KHlIDwHZNFm5kE3dRmV4ZU0pyihkWl2T9Jvu7oVlX9wGY85cBayaVt9SK_TUYQ5g8qgXLyucIvHHCeY9f986f_L4M/s1600/PCI-SanFran-Postcard-Back-JPG.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 277px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWQPhHm0MgMw6ZuqxOQMwDGtsOoaWtNFeMDnXjIbDeYwjWMyEs09KHlIDwHZNFm5kE3dRmV4ZU0pyihkWl2T9Jvu7oVlX9wGY85cBayaVt9SK_TUYQ5g8qgXLyucIvHHCeY9f986f_L4M/s400/PCI-SanFran-Postcard-Back-JPG.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706521086622809970" /></a>There are only a few spots left for both the Youth Clinic and the Adult Semi-Private Lessons. Sign up now while you can!<div><br /></div><div>Youth Clinic: <a href="http://bit.ly/xNMciy">http://bit.ly/xNMciy</a></div><div>Semi-Private Lessons: <a href="http://bit.ly/wMHnZC">http://bit.ly/wMHnZC</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Hope to see you there!</div><div><br /></div><div>KJ</div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-17344394815450104942011-10-22T09:08:00.000-07:002011-10-22T10:15:03.338-07:00Injury UpdateA little over a week ago, I sustained a season ending ankle injury while climbing on pitch 15 of the Dawn Wall project on El Cap. There's not much more to say than that. I'm extremely disappointed to not be on the wall right now, pursuing this dream project and supporting Tommy.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirI6jW8X-GxUqinlnDSg4NyswXcyUncqbBMoV5g38lxdlqjROig69DywHmVb-DGp6ti3BdN8CXyvrwti4G1FVATpYM8gE_9LHnGgN_y_vn5klf7PCSXJl1utULM8Hij2DrTTm2nKHpkHk/s1600/-2.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirI6jW8X-GxUqinlnDSg4NyswXcyUncqbBMoV5g38lxdlqjROig69DywHmVb-DGp6ti3BdN8CXyvrwti4G1FVATpYM8gE_9LHnGgN_y_vn5klf7PCSXJl1utULM8Hij2DrTTm2nKHpkHk/s400/-2.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5666355851401351810" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The injury occurred while attempting the 8 foot sideways dyno on pitch 15. On my first attempt of the season, I threw with everything I had, hoping to stick the move with the muscle memory from last year. I made good contact with the hold and began to hold the swing. Usually, the left foot slides down the wall, stopping when it hits the corner and halting the swing. Instead of sliding, my foot stuck upon first contact, and rolled. It then continued to slide down the wall until it hit the corner and rolled again. I instantly knew something was wrong, but a combination of shock and denial clouded the pain enough for me to try a few more times, until I stuck the dyno.<br /><br />Upon lowering to the belay, I knew something was terribly wrong. I called my amazing physio Vicki Chung from the wall and made an appointment for the next day. Less than 24 hours later, I was in her office getting checked out. An X-Ray revealed that it wasn't broken. Three appointments later, the swelling had gone down and we were able to get a good assessment of the damage: bruised bones and a combination of stretched and compressed ligaments. I should recover fully with time, but for now, any kind of inversion or eversion of the ankle is still painful with the joint itself feeling quite unstable thanks to the stretched ligaments. 4 weeks of no climbing.<br /><br />Seeing Tommy's updates from the wall is surreal. I feel out of place without the exposure under my toes, chalk on my hands, the sounds of gear being clipped, the pain of those sharp holds under my fingers, and the monumental task at hand that we've been working for so long. Tommy of course is charging ahead, now with the support of his amazing wife Becca. Since October 2009, this has been a team effort. To be a member of a team is to act with selflessness in the name of success. If Tommy sends without me, I will be happy to have helped push this project to completion. If not, we will be back.<br /><br />Go get it Tommy. Eye of the Tiger!<br /><br />- KJ aka Hectorkjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-18825642132063461122011-09-05T20:32:00.000-07:002011-09-05T20:34:02.414-07:00Reel Rock Film Tour Trailer!!The 2011 Reel Rock Film Tour Trailer is here!! Be sure to check it out and find a show near you!!<br /><iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/L35qBS7XqvI" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="345" width="560"></iframe>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-60650710938545631392011-08-15T11:39:00.000-07:002011-08-15T11:42:29.526-07:00What is PCI?Here is a video about the non-profit I have been working on for the past two years. This video hardly captures everything we are doing, but it gives you an idea. For more information, visit our website: <a href="http://www.proclimbers.com">http://www.proclimbers.com</a>
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<br />kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-85035597013457522572011-06-08T19:15:00.000-07:002011-06-15T11:34:46.817-07:00Pro Cycling from the view of a Pro Climber<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-0pbtVfmIw6gXhjyFOV0jplJ0LXm-BkukodxPeQ7z0z7PmdZeS8V_Sa0eB-x62fi_n9xTJ7_7skyYT9flLuwEytCnUwFJyU8Q5_FEPW0UgtSWm5jKLdo2vP2ADDNdIM2_PaSF2wsfRDk/s1600/photo.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-0pbtVfmIw6gXhjyFOV0jplJ0LXm-BkukodxPeQ7z0z7PmdZeS8V_Sa0eB-x62fi_n9xTJ7_7skyYT9flLuwEytCnUwFJyU8Q5_FEPW0UgtSWm5jKLdo2vP2ADDNdIM2_PaSF2wsfRDk/s400/photo.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616044448014046610" /></a><br />On May 18, I was invited as a guest of Team Radioshack to watch the exciting finish to Stage 4 of the Tour of California in San Jose, CA. Having missed the Tour of California coming through my home town of Santa Rosa for the past few years, I was stoked to go check it out, especially from a booth right next to the finish line!<div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUq8P9_Bbn5vxKXHbgWnb6fKLtkvE7Tq1cyIkzY_R2qDc-9hsHwQWF8XT6YP7ZGC8SKalxOIbndIAG-JVXc90JdL94SIc3n2yGRpEWxODBsg-RaB7Fde_k0r94F5kb5IcSJ0XD06RTxNo/s1600/photo-1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUq8P9_Bbn5vxKXHbgWnb6fKLtkvE7Tq1cyIkzY_R2qDc-9hsHwQWF8XT6YP7ZGC8SKalxOIbndIAG-JVXc90JdL94SIc3n2yGRpEWxODBsg-RaB7Fde_k0r94F5kb5IcSJ0XD06RTxNo/s400/photo-1.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616044453774277666" /></a><br /></div><div>Through my work with <a href="http://www.proclimbers.com/">PCI</a>, I am constantly comparing climbing to other sports in respect to their events, presentation, organization, fans, sponsors, athletes, and history. This day gave me a great glimpse into the world of professional cycling. </div><div><br /></div><div>We arrived a few hours before the riders were anticipated to finish the stage and I was happy to see the area in total chaos. Sponsor banners still had to be hung, the finish line had to be erected, booths needed to be set up and cameras still had to get into place. The reason I was happy to see this was because I've been there. This time last year, together with <a href="http://www.thespotgym.com/index.aspx">The Spot</a>, we produced <a href="http://vimeo.com/14776353">The Battle in the Bubble</a>. Event production is no joke. Talk about a logistical nightmare. However, it all seems to come together in the end, and it came together with hours to spare at the top of Sierra Road. </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqMA9zMfRVQb8QD70bON8CQlFar-J8ATk75pCzYTBZyzCZ-wgnlyWhXADjC25erhP-Vcbqh_6_dei36XG1UahBR3UvrqQZuF8C2lg3Xk4Lu7UPMnfebUvbHIWJmIHTu9XcXXmw3JOnNtE/s1600/photo-2.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqMA9zMfRVQb8QD70bON8CQlFar-J8ATk75pCzYTBZyzCZ-wgnlyWhXADjC25erhP-Vcbqh_6_dei36XG1UahBR3UvrqQZuF8C2lg3Xk4Lu7UPMnfebUvbHIWJmIHTu9XcXXmw3JOnNtE/s400/photo-2.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616046262791231266" /></a><br /></div><div>From the RadioShack booth, we were able to watch the race coming in live via satellite on a flat screen TV. It was great to talk with some of the families of the riders on Team RadioShack and hear what they were like as kids. We exchanged hospital visit stories in what turned out to be very similar childhoods filled with adventure and passion. The parents I talked to reminded me of my parents in a lot of ways as they described watching their child scrape their knees, break some bones, and pursue their passion to the fullest. Very cool. </div><div><br /></div><div>From an event production standpoint, all I can say is "WOW." Consider the footprint of a bouldering event versus a pro cycling event. We are talking about the difference between covering the action that can fit in the corner of a small football field (bouldering) and one that needs to be followed by helicopter. Stage 4 of the Tour was the shortest stage at 81 miles in length between Livermore and San Jose. At any given time, the field of riders is spread across several miles of road, traveling between 10 and 60 miles per hour, and across who knows how many different jurisdictions. I counted no less than 3 helicopters following the action up the road. </div><div><br /></div><div>Despite the scope of the event and all the media coverage, it was also interesting to hear a very similar conversation to what we hear with climbing: "growth," "going mainstream," "popularity," and "big sponsors." I've always said that PCI isn't trying to do anything new, just new for climbing. Attending this event really drove this point home for me. I heard the commentators talk about enhancing the quality of the media coverage over the years, slowly growing the fan base, slowly attracting and retaining new sponsors, and growing the number of athletes who attend each year. This is coming from a sport with 40 million participants in the United States alone. Compare this to the Sport/Indoor/Bouldering segment of "Climbing" which has 4.3 million participants and you start to get the picture of where climbing is on its potential growth curve.</div><div><br /></div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-5371099776132784962011-04-24T23:58:00.001-07:002011-04-25T00:10:03.740-07:00National Geographic<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT9BFYY2ckkva9bupO3ZWyJEtCrjwBosmvBf_d3xpzDO0kcbqLzD-2SWDLURdOyxK6MEXUPQlc2yUB-FJ23n5dS03ZWrzX6Fgm4C0upOhVbE_pecND1Y8SpKu1nLa2GwXoSsLp7CAPMGY/s1600/218892_10150153293210668_504170667_7077641_2281368_o.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT9BFYY2ckkva9bupO3ZWyJEtCrjwBosmvBf_d3xpzDO0kcbqLzD-2SWDLURdOyxK6MEXUPQlc2yUB-FJ23n5dS03ZWrzX6Fgm4C0upOhVbE_pecND1Y8SpKu1nLa2GwXoSsLp7CAPMGY/s400/218892_10150153293210668_504170667_7077641_2281368_o.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599412289339018754" /></a><br />The May issue of National Geographic is on news stands and it features a great article on Yosemite climbing by Mark Jenkins with photography by Jimmy Chin. This past fall, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk of Camp4Collective joined Tommy and I up on the wall for a week. The product of their talent and hard work is featured on the pages of Nat Geo and in several amazing videos available on the Nat Geo website.<div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">If you don't have a physical copy, you can view scan of it thanks to Black Diamond via this link:</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; border-collapse: collapse; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/black-diamond/files/NatGeo.pdf">http://www.<wbr>blackdiamondequipment.com/<wbr>uploads/black-diamond/files/<wbr>NatGeo.pdf</a></span></span></div><div><br /></div><div>At the National Geographic website, you can see some exclusive videos, view the enlarged photos from the article, and read the full article (more easily than in the scan) via this link:</div><div><a href="http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/05/yosemite-climbing/jenkins-text">http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/05/yosemite-climbing/jenkins-text</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Enjoy!</div><div>KJ</div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-17797321921372845672011-04-08T20:05:00.000-07:002011-04-08T20:10:44.953-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKjfKa8b_Bh5bKfuptna26S1pw6IBKj396W9SrWApB-NvOu1R8P0jEv8rxIkxEMCaIqss5N4Vz_V26UJUgZC_4bWmyHpHN_anpx1JdnklnrHICfGJCFG1kZopVz4xSECWwOnB0OcZ42jA/s1600/TexasSlideshowPoster-JPG.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 259px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKjfKa8b_Bh5bKfuptna26S1pw6IBKj396W9SrWApB-NvOu1R8P0jEv8rxIkxEMCaIqss5N4Vz_V26UJUgZC_4bWmyHpHN_anpx1JdnklnrHICfGJCFG1kZopVz4xSECWwOnB0OcZ42jA/s400/TexasSlideshowPoster-JPG.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593415128084311506" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: 16px; font-family:Helvetica, Arial, FreeSans, sans-serif;font-size:12px;"><p style="margin-top: 8px; margin-bottom: 0px; line-height: 1.7em; background-image: none; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: initial; border-top-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-bottom-style: none; border-left-style: none; border-width: initial; border-color: initial; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-right: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 8px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 8px; text-align: justify; height: auto; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">As part of PCI's newly launched event booking service, I am happy to announce that I will be traveling to Dallas, TX from May 7-9th for three days of private lessons and a slideshow! We will be raffling off some great prizes, including a pair of Five Ten shoes and some apparel, so if you are in the area, come check this event out.</span></span></p><p style="margin-top: 8px; margin-bottom: 0px; line-height: 1.7em; background-image: none; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: initial; border-top-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-bottom-style: none; border-left-style: none; border-width: initial; border-color: initial; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-right: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 8px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 8px; text-align: justify; height: auto; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">The slideshow I'm going to give is titled "If at first you don't succeed..." and </span></span><span style="line-height: normal; border-collapse: collapse; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">is about something all climbers can relate to: failure. Progression cannot happen without failure. For over two years, Tommy Caldwell and I have battled bad weather, hard climbing and big wall logistics in our effort to free climb the hardest route on El Capitan, and one of the hardest in the world, The Dawn Wall. I'll be sharing what its like to dedicate years to a project and remain committed in the face of failure (and potential success!). With never before seen images from the upcoming issue of National Geographic, a teaser from Big UP Productions shoot of the Fall 2010 attempt, and awe inspiring photos from climbing's best photographers, you are guaranteed to be inspired.</span></span></span></p><p style="margin-top: 8px; margin-bottom: 0px; line-height: 1.7em; background-image: none; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: initial; border-top-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-bottom-style: none; border-left-style: none; border-width: initial; border-color: initial; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); margin-right: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 8px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 8px; text-align: justify; height: auto; overflow-x: hidden; overflow-y: hidden; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">When I'm not climbing, another one of my passions is teaching. </span></span><span style="line-height: normal; border-collapse: collapse; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">I have been teaching technique and movement for the past 5 years and have worked with over 200 climbers of all abilities. My teaching style is one of efficiency and mechanics over strength and power. As both a veteran competitor and rock climber, I bring 14 years of experience to each and every lesson I teach. I love watching a climber's progression over the course of two hours. There's little more satisfying than sharing your experience with another person in a way that influences them in a positive way. VERY rewarding. If you're interested in taking a private lesson at Dallas Rocks between May 7 - 9th, go to the front desk for more information. I hope to see you all there!</span></span></span></p></span>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-34175921910855099722011-04-05T10:08:00.000-07:002011-04-10T22:07:48.274-07:00Transporter Room 2nd Ascent<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">It is a well known fact that the Buttermilks of Bishop, CA are known for their highballs. It only takes one visit, or one glance at a photograph, to realize how big the granite boulders are and how unique the geology is. However, had it not been for the events of the mid to late 1980's, and a climb called Transporter Room, the Buttermilks may be known for the country's shortest sport climbs instead.</span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">From the history update to the latest edition of the Bishop Bouldering guidebook, Wills Young describes the scene at Buttermilks in the late 1980's and early 1990's:<br /></span><div><!--StartFragment--> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">"The Grandpa Peabody is a massive boulder by any standards and its east face is its most unrelenting. Sure, there are bigger free standing boulders in the world...but not many. The well-featured, steadily overhanging east face of this monster was once a top-rope project that Tom (formerly Tommy) Herbert had been working back in the early 1990's. Recognizing its beauty, he even named the line Ambrosia, food of the immortals, fitting with the Buttermilk theme. Herbert wrestled with the idea of bolting the face, knowing it would make a fine sport route. However, he had already set a precedent for the area: he had removed bolts once placed on the neighboring Transporter Room (5.12), as a point of protest against the sport-bolting of Buttermilk climbs. Bolting was not an option. Moreover, the Buttermilks was a lonely, surreal backwater at the time. No place to be seen. Or unseen. Consequently, Herbert moved on to cliffs elsewhere. He left the spectacular wall chalked but unclimbed. In a sense then, we have Herbert to thank for steering the Buttermilks to its current path, one that left the great unclimbed lines for future generations, sparing these climbs the humiliation of a one-way trip to rap-bolted obscurity. "</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Dale Bard first explored Transporter Room as a boulder problem by bouldering up to an obvious flake at the 20 foot height before down climbing. In 19878/88, having never fully climbed Transporter Room, Dale bolted the climb for his girlfriend at the time, Bobbi Bensman (PS thanks for this background info/history Bobbi!). While Dale was sinking 5, 3/8" bolts in, there were two kids in the parking lot watching. When Dale got down, they started to give Dale a hard time, saying they were "going to tell Tommy (Tommy Herbert)," who was a staunch opponent to rap bolting. After listening to all this, Dale walked back up the hill, booted up, and soloed the first ascent of Transporter Room. Back at the parking lot, Dale apparently tells the kids, "There! Now it's a boulder problem!" and walked away. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">A few days later, Tommy chopped it and Transporter Room sunk into Buttermilks history as the first mega-highball of the area. </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">In 2007, I first rappelled off the top of Grandpa Peabody looking for Transporter Room. I was keen to see this piece of Buttermilk history and try my hand at it. Unknowingly, I rapped off the wrong anchors and down the face of what would become, a few years later, Ambrosia:</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFhcYkx8Tbi7RNjW_-D1wmtUTArNdT-QeWe54xNHGWQwo-Vc8vjiWTHYVJIea5awzZBDEsLkG5bXPLRtnCJYuXtR4M636B8jVWInYSGdL4dm4DpI0VjPhQ2pkk8f6NNbTM_-VjFOG76Pc/s1600/ambrosia13.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFhcYkx8Tbi7RNjW_-D1wmtUTArNdT-QeWe54xNHGWQwo-Vc8vjiWTHYVJIea5awzZBDEsLkG5bXPLRtnCJYuXtR4M636B8jVWInYSGdL4dm4DpI0VjPhQ2pkk8f6NNbTM_-VjFOG76Pc/s400/ambrosia13.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594186229267469650" /></a></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Photo by Jim Thornburg. </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">By the way, if you have not seen his book, Stone Mountains, you are missing out:</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUFcC8bYDe5eH1oZ02NbSswBJpdK5BM6AUO4av2bSEZTaBBTE4NjxRf9N1bUJpb9CEvNudZdMdv7lfhrQ-nrKb5nj9wdNsCiTSmJ5LLhyh3wyNaSVXYwtDE_7b9hoE3IJZKV7Y9eBBK0s/s1600/stone-mountains-300x228.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 228px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUFcC8bYDe5eH1oZ02NbSswBJpdK5BM6AUO4av2bSEZTaBBTE4NjxRf9N1bUJpb9CEvNudZdMdv7lfhrQ-nrKb5nj9wdNsCiTSmJ5LLhyh3wyNaSVXYwtDE_7b9hoE3IJZKV7Y9eBBK0s/s320/stone-mountains-300x228.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594187281046161426" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Fast forward to last week, I'm at the Buttermilks and wondering what to try. I remember Transporter Room and, knowing the correct line this time, rappel off to check it out. After a good scrub on rappel to wipe off almost 25 years of neglect, I was psyched to follow in Dale's footsteps. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">The climbing is straightforward, yet interesting. After 20 feet of fun 5.12, you get to two BIG sloping hueco's in the middle of the wall. These features mark the edge of the steep climbing and the friction slab. After a balancy and finger intensive sequence, you are standing in the two hueco's and are able to look up at 30 feet of 5.10 granite friction! In the photo below, I am finishing the mantle off of the flake that Dale (presumably) down climbed from before deciding to bolt the climb.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNx0ddUF6ncd-6Q86FjcemmxDoD58Yx5S83cOSFv7h-HZaTKP5fG15_xI_hxhLZRfBoclKrSph-yvR3lMi6ym3VuoYa_ewK8llU3tDn29GJwu21Qio5PhIyh5WqgT9TBQUe3P_ezs5TP4/s1600/Kev-3.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNx0ddUF6ncd-6Q86FjcemmxDoD58Yx5S83cOSFv7h-HZaTKP5fG15_xI_hxhLZRfBoclKrSph-yvR3lMi6ym3VuoYa_ewK8llU3tDn29GJwu21Qio5PhIyh5WqgT9TBQUe3P_ezs5TP4/s400/Kev-3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594166642574625154" /></a></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Second Ascent of Transporter Room, 5.12/v5 X</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">In classic Buttermilk style, the climbing at the top is not terribly difficult, but demanding of your composure and footwork. Over 5 minutes after leaving the ground, I was elated to have made the second ascent of the original Buttermilks highball.</span></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Honestly, I'm a little ashamed it's taken me this long to repeat Transporter Room! I don't mean that in a pretentious way either. I'm honestly disappointed in myself! It is a right of passage to complete the testpieces of the past...a nod of the hat if you will to the visionaries before us. Every time we (climbers under 30) start to think we are the shit, let us not forget: we stand (humbly and gratefully) on the shoulders of the climbers before us. Without their vision and balls, we would be nowhere near where we are today. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=" ;font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></p> <!--EndFragment--> </div></div></div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-16419504524017011842011-03-29T10:38:00.000-07:002011-03-29T11:30:34.563-07:00New Project!For some reason, it takes me a long time to accept a new project. In a purgatory of non-committment, an idea for a new line will sit for weeks, months, even years. Then, one day, a switch flips. I become obsessed. Usually this happens when I come to the realization that the project is possible. This is exactly what happened yesterday with a line I have been looking at for LONG time. It's right under our noses, just right of the quintessential highball, Evilution.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHv6h3G1FdFCEA-dLeeSNO9oUnV24SwLrbl8lZAiRv9JpWsenmjLaUuAk0G1DTgIU4OEAxI-lZCrOMfiH8u_bmyW6u7qv1v1vIkLssackUFH7Vb30znwC6ewlcBMk2VlX6YWQBHB-4ig/s1600/Project.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHv6h3G1FdFCEA-dLeeSNO9oUnV24SwLrbl8lZAiRv9JpWsenmjLaUuAk0G1DTgIU4OEAxI-lZCrOMfiH8u_bmyW6u7qv1v1vIkLssackUFH7Vb30znwC6ewlcBMk2VlX6YWQBHB-4ig/s400/Project.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589567183797442050" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">The Grandpa Peabody</div><br />Several seasons ago, Matt Birch made the first ascent of Social Distortion, a wicked hard 4 move v13 on the right side of the wall that drops off at an obvious flake. Anthony Chertudi repeated the feat, perhaps unknowing of Matt's ascent, naming it Blood Meridian and confirming the grade. Above the "heart" flake lies three moves that are just as hard, if not harder, to gain the lip. From here, a crazy sequence involving a heel hook above your head at the 20 foot level gets you to the last crux: 2 full length lock-offs with your feet above the lip. The first is a long left arm pull off of a half pad knob to a credit card razor. The next is taking the razor and pulling it down to your arm pit to gain a good edge, which you mantle to safety.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq0py8X72wRUiFQwU4GSxvRtljZkGIuLkBvYDjMZAlF3S0-l_Cb3LOSXof-T9X4db66BQE4CETbeNriB9yJSEd7GeSQjEEpCDgf1maVhUXJ9JfO1o73cGNaeVEaZC6nXAeFteVd5N18lU/s1600/Blood+Meridian.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq0py8X72wRUiFQwU4GSxvRtljZkGIuLkBvYDjMZAlF3S0-l_Cb3LOSXof-T9X4db66BQE4CETbeNriB9yJSEd7GeSQjEEpCDgf1maVhUXJ9JfO1o73cGNaeVEaZC6nXAeFteVd5N18lU/s400/Blood+Meridian.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589568688441236210" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Dan Beall on Social Distortion, v13</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Yesterday afternoon, I had a great session on the project, climbing through Social Distortion for the first time and falling on the first move off of the "heart" flake, which is a huge left hand move to an incut gaston. After getting boosted through Social Distortion, I was able to stick the next left hand move and fall after making the scrunchy hand-foot match. I think a little stretching is in order....</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">After focusing on the Dawn Wall for the last few years, it feels great to have a good 'ol bouldering project to sink my teeth into. The temperatures are warming up here in Bishop, but the evenings remain nice, so we'll see how it goes! Tonight, I'm going to keep working the upper half of the project, getting from the "heart" flake to the lip. If these moves go, then it's time to round out at least 16 pads (we had 12 yesterday and it wasn't even close to enough) and go for it! </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Psyched!</div><div style="text-align: left;">KJ</div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-46426504905821248512011-03-13T15:18:00.000-07:002011-03-13T15:20:56.157-07:00Red Rock Rendezvous!!!Hey All! I'm very excited to be attending the Red Rock Rendezvous on behalf of Black Diamond next weekend! I've never been to the event before, but I've heard nothing but great things. I'll be teaching several bouldering clinics throughout the weekend, so if you're interested, be sure to sign up. I'll also be doing a slideshow to benefit the Access Fund and Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Counsel at Desert Rock Sports on Thursday, March 17th at 8pm. There will be a BBQ before hand and a raffle after the show, so be sure to come grab a bite to eat, enjoy the show, support the community, and maybe even win some sweet gear! <div><br /></div><div>Hope to see you there!</div><div><br /></div><div>KJ</div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-89593417656989937292010-11-15T14:25:00.001-08:002010-11-15T14:25:11.409-08:00<tr height="15" style="border-top: 1px solid #0F7BBC;"> <td> I won't be blogging much from the wall but you can follow our progress via Twitter @kjorgeson. </td> </tr> kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-40731125796662449532010-11-12T19:15:00.000-08:002010-11-12T20:53:58.975-08:00Here we go!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMajLSdQeqG9OHk3ySQ8EATMOvyMeDkVp0veURKEtmaHwKgLj9svMmmOPCNKkG24sHcuFFwwr8mJQpMpHOin4j7Q5cgxBecfeP2vqbfzUunkGhGL-1P1fjvitXlRxbzdY4x2jR3gF4LM/s1600/El+Cap+Line.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 298px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnMajLSdQeqG9OHk3ySQ8EATMOvyMeDkVp0veURKEtmaHwKgLj9svMmmOPCNKkG24sHcuFFwwr8mJQpMpHOin4j7Q5cgxBecfeP2vqbfzUunkGhGL-1P1fjvitXlRxbzdY4x2jR3gF4LM/s400/El+Cap+Line.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538874125976515490" /></a>Tomorrow morning, November 13, Tommy and I will hike to the base of El Cap. However, this time the familiar approach will feel definitively different. This time, we are not coming down at the end of the day. This time, it's for real. Our camps are stashed, our beta is refined, and the weather is clear. For the next two weeks, Tommy and I are finally beginning our send push. We call it a push because, after the first day, it will undoubtedly be a battle for every pitch.<div><br /></div><div>Day 1 is one of most important days of the push. We will cover more ground on our first day than any other day over the next two weeks. Our plan is to climb the first 8 pitches, which break down like this:</div><div><br /></div><div>Pitch 1: 5.12b glacier polished slab, KJ lead</div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHb4tLcbZaHLh7nIlMvscA6hgvFGDFv9i0i7NtpYjH4U11hFUJPxIbvyTcmNn2griyjJMR65DLxxm7C-qZBLpOpko0mLbb03AMGr_Ck6scBohEoHcavUyGnej8MyUMkpcnt4fgXQNO45A/s1600/74338_585527985214_15305974_33731566_8174116_n.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHb4tLcbZaHLh7nIlMvscA6hgvFGDFv9i0i7NtpYjH4U11hFUJPxIbvyTcmNn2griyjJMR65DLxxm7C-qZBLpOpko0mLbb03AMGr_Ck6scBohEoHcavUyGnej8MyUMkpcnt4fgXQNO45A/s400/74338_585527985214_15305974_33731566_8174116_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538888266230040002" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">KJ mini-traxioning Pitch 1 earlier this season</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Pitch 2: 5.13a crack, TC lead</div><div>Pitch 3: 5.13d discontinuous cracks, KJ lead</div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyO_8xasEEc4WAbkrwfAMjLNxhTIYZ1UJ9HCZBteQHmG-_oYKPtHu_9fTKqRr9EH8mCZA4frc4RFUSGhGD7HWFvBUQ3g_XWVSyKfPjFyZNkC5l0yvRYzUB70sG59FzgjkvLGdAXj4lG8k/s1600/_MG_7371+2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyO_8xasEEc4WAbkrwfAMjLNxhTIYZ1UJ9HCZBteQHmG-_oYKPtHu_9fTKqRr9EH8mCZA4frc4RFUSGhGD7HWFvBUQ3g_XWVSyKfPjFyZNkC5l0yvRYzUB70sG59FzgjkvLGdAXj4lG8k/s400/_MG_7371+2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538884954997191362" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">KJ on the first crux of Pitch 3, November 2009, Tim Kemple Photo</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Pitch 4: 5.12b corner and crack with wet streak at the top, TC lead</div><div>Pitch 5: 5.12d crack and lieback with wet sections throughout, KJ lead</div><div>Pitch 6: 5.13c corner and face, TC lead</div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihrchJHWYWNaTnBmGt0xZnAmiWqsr9dpw2JazqF_TOqDBB9N_3_uYBBx7561vBgm02WORibDBW5Tqbw9sMHVIO4FnHvF4EQ09s2wnK7LyXf-tuqyIdPtG5alaJ37uWjDkrEogS1OLFcZ8/s1600/_MG_6551.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihrchJHWYWNaTnBmGt0xZnAmiWqsr9dpw2JazqF_TOqDBB9N_3_uYBBx7561vBgm02WORibDBW5Tqbw9sMHVIO4FnHvF4EQ09s2wnK7LyXf-tuqyIdPtG5alaJ37uWjDkrEogS1OLFcZ8/s400/_MG_6551.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538886737346273586" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Tommy on Pitch 6 in November 2009, Tim Kemple Photo</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Pitch 7: 5.14a lieback with hard crux at the top, protected by peckers, KJ lead</div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsOSwh9iw1FvgmEv2eoz2l5aT9xPushR2ZKs8lwGRfzLbLjmjydWeESm3SFhO-Qh0NRdSuNRj5HkndUFyOKy0ak9tkqtUjefTXapedY-OnsOd7l1AsdcrYNBSnjExsqSMIttAfYWUxIY/s1600/_MG_7539+2.jpg" style="text-decoration: none;"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 275px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsOSwh9iw1FvgmEv2eoz2l5aT9xPushR2ZKs8lwGRfzLbLjmjydWeESm3SFhO-Qh0NRdSuNRj5HkndUFyOKy0ak9tkqtUjefTXapedY-OnsOd7l1AsdcrYNBSnjExsqSMIttAfYWUxIY/s400/_MG_7539+2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538885288772244786" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Tommy on Pitch 7 in November 2009, Tim Kemple Photo</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Pitch 8: 5.13+ boulder problem, TC lead</div><div>Camp is stashed at the top of pitch 8</div><div><br /></div><div>Day 2 will consist of pitch 9, 5.13b, and hopefully a send of pitch 10, 5.14.</div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8YF42NwMx8G2iq4AIyjK7pft6QEp8m2c308CDeVERs5PQJSAFu7t5DV4yPzbazuMYuN_BzMZUeem8L3IybVOqpN39LCE5Tik_SPlxfi_1S58VucZJkxmDXZy9mSmSsbqF9vRmAMimo38/s1600/cover-289-375.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 309px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8YF42NwMx8G2iq4AIyjK7pft6QEp8m2c308CDeVERs5PQJSAFu7t5DV4yPzbazuMYuN_BzMZUeem8L3IybVOqpN39LCE5Tik_SPlxfi_1S58VucZJkxmDXZy9mSmSsbqF9vRmAMimo38/s400/cover-289-375.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538890993814036930" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Pitch 9, 5.13b</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH37_GS6u7tPwEjRxM2WVhgP3bityaUF142KegP3GSMDQvolo_shyphenhyphenuy35Vpxh7JVHVnpwEOWdGQGdIYCQ3e0ZADJ61qjQ6EmmpIcxleg6HLQYt3M2_Xl6dArsD7l7gqSVEAZZnSI0A37g/s1600/IMG_0380.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH37_GS6u7tPwEjRxM2WVhgP3bityaUF142KegP3GSMDQvolo_shyphenhyphenuy35Vpxh7JVHVnpwEOWdGQGdIYCQ3e0ZADJ61qjQ6EmmpIcxleg6HLQYt3M2_Xl6dArsD7l7gqSVEAZZnSI0A37g/s400/IMG_0380.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538890473719869010" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Tommy mini-traxioning the bottom of Pitch 10</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">After day two and the completion of pitch 10 (which is a monster), we will likely be spending one day for each pitch thereafter with rest days mixed in. Pitches 12, 13, 14, and 15 are all 5.14, and solid at that. This effort is the culmination of roughly 65 days of work over three season. I don't think I'm going to sleep well tonight, but only because I can't wait to get started. I'll do my best to update from the wall as we make progress.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">KJ</div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-25124856334226366982010-11-03T11:11:00.001-07:002010-11-03T11:11:16.939-07:00<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmhuCZnIJO1NbqYA01W26D3c44GJJJGEmnZ6zGtf6vp-AvDFo8BE_9hH_LELZhOhhA58aCMx4FaZ1T00S0x3dy4ot5b7O6GupLY1adp3clDv2J2oH40_o3INeLW-BqscJnkm0oYc9IO8k/s1600/IMG_6807-776940.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmhuCZnIJO1NbqYA01W26D3c44GJJJGEmnZ6zGtf6vp-AvDFo8BE_9hH_LELZhOhhA58aCMx4FaZ1T00S0x3dy4ot5b7O6GupLY1adp3clDv2J2oH40_o3INeLW-BqscJnkm0oYc9IO8k/s320/IMG_6807-776940.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535387685647993906" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnA6EnVXC6MX1ZNqQ-UQKBnHypmoJBvnFqHdH3b64tT2i0G9iB0TB5GZik14lxEUIABlBkcR5B88wu6JJhvB7_jvwnlYJqG2SEcp5mDfC2JPiW7M6X_jJ_iHFHOn3kzDHjsetd9FUd2gU/s1600/IMG_5249-778596.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnA6EnVXC6MX1ZNqQ-UQKBnHypmoJBvnFqHdH3b64tT2i0G9iB0TB5GZik14lxEUIABlBkcR5B88wu6JJhvB7_jvwnlYJqG2SEcp5mDfC2JPiW7M6X_jJ_iHFHOn3kzDHjsetd9FUd2gU/s320/IMG_5249-778596.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535387688275976034" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSndCwwhcRJI_eKYYEeshtyWwzOdTAsBRp0deRSmdbwcGI_zXB8GVV74joX3PFY6tqE5cP1Xby4JCMaD8rfSDeDzg_JYRzinDKckbwRy5kNA8zvir0KCWe-us7JxP33VqzWWKCqIDge3Q/s1600/IMG_0073-779812.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSndCwwhcRJI_eKYYEeshtyWwzOdTAsBRp0deRSmdbwcGI_zXB8GVV74joX3PFY6tqE5cP1Xby4JCMaD8rfSDeDzg_JYRzinDKckbwRy5kNA8zvir0KCWe-us7JxP33VqzWWKCqIDge3Q/s320/IMG_0073-779812.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535387696568107074" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWx7NVivAyDycTrrUmzoapq1gDJKwQ89XbJ30ylzSFLwRHiyX7_doCC_H0r2dETi1hdqL_YBhhFVXRfN5m-j7mz3zrqsuT4CTRs_tW24ZullXvRHp6rrynAy3s8pKD9MDSwoYBkpplyVM/s1600/IMG_3658-782905.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWx7NVivAyDycTrrUmzoapq1gDJKwQ89XbJ30ylzSFLwRHiyX7_doCC_H0r2dETi1hdqL_YBhhFVXRfN5m-j7mz3zrqsuT4CTRs_tW24ZullXvRHp6rrynAy3s8pKD9MDSwoYBkpplyVM/s320/IMG_3658-782905.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535387711199252482" /></a></p><tr height="15" style="border-top: 1px solid #0F7BBC;"> <td> Ledge life... </td> </tr> kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-72522935494293347472010-10-18T12:33:00.000-07:002010-10-18T13:04:43.775-07:00Pitch 16: The Dyno<div>It's October 18th already! Where has the time gone!? After my birthday, Tommy and I got right to work by hiking up the East Ledges and establishing our basecamp on Wino Tower. Despite the seasonal early October storm, the weather has remained warm (80's!), far too hot to work on these tough pitches in the daylight. This was no surprise however. We planned on doing a lot of night climbing this season and that's exactly what we've been doing. About 4pm every day, the wall goes into the shade. We'll eat a big dinner and rappel off Wino Tower to work on the 4 pitches below us (pitch 16: 5.14, pitch 17: 5.13c, pitch 18: 5.13c or d and pitch 19: 5.13c). Climbing at night has worked out great. It's quiet, cool, and time seems to stand still. Hours will pass in the solitude of your headlamp and thoughts before arriving back at Wino Tower sometime in the middle of the night. </div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBxJJUnoONgAgHxNgkzk0bkAnfWwXfjPd5Y9JpurHc5x9D_1e2cys7poAH6axSFpJnnprW0gVaJrej2L0SHU5I6hXNe4-Gz3qDkjIA3gRydR1hNNTgEBUV8HTmWnbJeFkXbWEgKfLzZA8/s1600/IMG_0770.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBxJJUnoONgAgHxNgkzk0bkAnfWwXfjPd5Y9JpurHc5x9D_1e2cys7poAH6axSFpJnnprW0gVaJrej2L0SHU5I6hXNe4-Gz3qDkjIA3gRydR1hNNTgEBUV8HTmWnbJeFkXbWEgKfLzZA8/s400/IMG_0770.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529475005525977426" /></a><div><br /></div><div>During our last two day stint on the wall, Tommy and I focused on the "Dyno Pitch." This pitch features three distinct cruxes: the dyno (obviously), the super thin dihedral directly above, and the crimp liebacking at the top. On the first night (we've been climbing from 5pm - 1am lately for optimal conditions), we worked out a great sequence for the dihedral and liebacking. Tommy linked the pitch from above the dyno to the top and I managed from the middle of the dihedral to the top. This was a huge breakthrough for both of us. The next morning was cloudy and windy, so we had the treat of climbing in the daylight. When Tommy said he wanted to work on the dyno that day, I wasn't so sure. But, after a few cups of coffee, I could hardly contain myself. Our buddy Cooper Blackhurst was with us and snapped a few photos of the dyno...</div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0r5YxpYdhDIuMtljiWPZ_sSRuB8PobyEQzlbTUNj5QBFh67UaAFEJ3cSbTPpVxpu37PJNUw2zes_ZU7s0MtXMylbTEyuTlhqxKDz8Qqo3dD5BgRuN1VlKQEQazcGrMyrH4hs391FF778/s1600/IMG_0777.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0r5YxpYdhDIuMtljiWPZ_sSRuB8PobyEQzlbTUNj5QBFh67UaAFEJ3cSbTPpVxpu37PJNUw2zes_ZU7s0MtXMylbTEyuTlhqxKDz8Qqo3dD5BgRuN1VlKQEQazcGrMyrH4hs391FF778/s400/IMG_0777.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529474173008140418" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">The Set Up</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUH16T3Jl6S6-L3AC2R63GTkHGXZ5klbUKo1NzHnfuRBQgSORbU84zvZryWUYLplA_7Uu-vz_5phnm-1EPplSvZEfK40ayDavhgweT3XX5xww3lvZBU8U0jgkJ6j8sq6yTN961S-sP4OU/s1600/Kev-20Dyno.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 236px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUH16T3Jl6S6-L3AC2R63GTkHGXZ5klbUKo1NzHnfuRBQgSORbU84zvZryWUYLplA_7Uu-vz_5phnm-1EPplSvZEfK40ayDavhgweT3XX5xww3lvZBU8U0jgkJ6j8sq6yTN961S-sP4OU/s400/Kev-20Dyno.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529474168948434994" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">The Leap!!</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRtXH8N4VsO7cMhQqZp9rHbA1eZcdfGluIdufVT8RVTjHkdYuYY0swT8nmq3vh0ob2WSQr_YluS-jqRi3i1ZJrExLydsI7bPsWyyq1JMF8_5CIVEQuDgeI29LbJRzwilJEWN2QAqQhhcY/s1600/IMG_0778.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRtXH8N4VsO7cMhQqZp9rHbA1eZcdfGluIdufVT8RVTjHkdYuYY0swT8nmq3vh0ob2WSQr_YluS-jqRi3i1ZJrExLydsI7bPsWyyq1JMF8_5CIVEQuDgeI29LbJRzwilJEWN2QAqQhhcY/s400/IMG_0778.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529474165091172882" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">The Catch</div><div><br /></div><div>To my great surprise, my body remembered how to execute the move, and within a few tries, I was sticking the dyno! This was a great relief for me, as this is one more of seven 5.14 pitches that is feeling more and more feasible with every attempt. Where Tommy excels at super technical climbing, I guess I can jump. Tommy came close to sticking the move at least 15 times, but alas, no dice. I'm not too worried though. He'll stick it. And when he does, we'll turn our attention to the MEAT of the climb: the two traverse pitches between Mescalito and The Wall of Early Morning Light. </div>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-13381659511835285932010-10-12T09:36:00.001-07:002010-10-12T09:36:25.376-07:00<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4QMvFWzTT7hxzB4PFXrGSpELfRozthL3vuFxRw36LXzny8dyE4nKAOPNnAlBj2dZ1cFNW6jWGwTPAAm0xfEFaOIid-_8GG7pHNp3jngeguCwygOHl5zpnc_ELa5frhLbyExKKVBlbzfY/s1600/IMG_6807-785377.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4QMvFWzTT7hxzB4PFXrGSpELfRozthL3vuFxRw36LXzny8dyE4nKAOPNnAlBj2dZ1cFNW6jWGwTPAAm0xfEFaOIid-_8GG7pHNp3jngeguCwygOHl5zpnc_ELa5frhLbyExKKVBlbzfY/s320/IMG_6807-785377.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5527199362003123202" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaG1yXp42ruZOs7YbObMFNCQ4UUiB1HfBIfunkr0aMarQ6_HWdJ-4Jqv-naZDv-5AHRin2YL22Dah9csjUOvf3XFdHMtRKfhKQRCNIEpjlV7MWzA-EYy17rkZu1rdIxQP1RZnlU_V8rWA/s1600/IMG_5249-786801.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaG1yXp42ruZOs7YbObMFNCQ4UUiB1HfBIfunkr0aMarQ6_HWdJ-4Jqv-naZDv-5AHRin2YL22Dah9csjUOvf3XFdHMtRKfhKQRCNIEpjlV7MWzA-EYy17rkZu1rdIxQP1RZnlU_V8rWA/s320/IMG_5249-786801.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5527199374600964482" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4Frwf1KxJy9pgNadV0HCIMd-Dp7hfBpwr-N4a8Hc3D8llmylURgQr_1nZdRXAz2gh1VeikugdG1FXQFs1tR3p_k-SpmlRZGGh9AkZAnBUHtPxO2XQ_YZZLaBxlciU8-4n1d4BjM0w30/s1600/IMG_0073-788546.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4Frwf1KxJy9pgNadV0HCIMd-Dp7hfBpwr-N4a8Hc3D8llmylURgQr_1nZdRXAz2gh1VeikugdG1FXQFs1tR3p_k-SpmlRZGGh9AkZAnBUHtPxO2XQ_YZZLaBxlciU8-4n1d4BjM0w30/s320/IMG_0073-788546.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5527199375332491106" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrsifnQtk6oNXIWcreaqScSFqcBwBfQw_8ITpTzMZ8fjWcy0eBAN5oX5vORwvrQ99kQdvF8oErSzDc83Vcw8aj8BIWmi0OMOzOK3PnqJcuolJtemCX7XRdZUSS77Q4g5rF36_wnDQygA/s1600/IMG_3658-789477.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrsifnQtk6oNXIWcreaqScSFqcBwBfQw_8ITpTzMZ8fjWcy0eBAN5oX5vORwvrQ99kQdvF8oErSzDc83Vcw8aj8BIWmi0OMOzOK3PnqJcuolJtemCX7XRdZUSS77Q4g5rF36_wnDQygA/s320/IMG_3658-789477.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5527199379104058450" /></a></p><tr height="15" style="border-top: 1px solid #0F7BBC;"> <td> For the last 11 years, I have been spending my birthday in Yosemite. The tradition started on my 16th birthday and has since grown to a great community trip of my closest friends and family. To everyone who made it out, thanks for making it a great birthday. To those who didn't make it, you were missed! </td> </tr> kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-36564903375790033722010-10-12T09:23:00.001-07:002010-10-12T09:23:44.619-07:00<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpCDMjVscAZr9nh8Xv7MihM56y_cndBNV9MkL2ErW35wnHpksoGnX_Ue9cU2VTW94JUxVvgMRfpI_jaCylYNyz1Bv1Jj5s5gY6tpPygh84pbEaSWVukITqSH5H-ubhM0ihIlb4q8yLXlw/s1600/IMG_6807-724620.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpCDMjVscAZr9nh8Xv7MihM56y_cndBNV9MkL2ErW35wnHpksoGnX_Ue9cU2VTW94JUxVvgMRfpI_jaCylYNyz1Bv1Jj5s5gY6tpPygh84pbEaSWVukITqSH5H-ubhM0ihIlb4q8yLXlw/s320/IMG_6807-724620.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5527196097401872674" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIif2t8xMA3v37O2PjGumbkHFLHIHzAmczU8P0-OPJ_kZltlRp_CczoqD0v2nwhpZa0Gk4Cm-ftGxq1-NOuUwk3JSxPXryz9lRdbMVmLwB4No3bAIeB7ljxsESxiuWDdVO6FBoPADNIts/s1600/IMG_5249-726084.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIif2t8xMA3v37O2PjGumbkHFLHIHzAmczU8P0-OPJ_kZltlRp_CczoqD0v2nwhpZa0Gk4Cm-ftGxq1-NOuUwk3JSxPXryz9lRdbMVmLwB4No3bAIeB7ljxsESxiuWDdVO6FBoPADNIts/s320/IMG_5249-726084.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5527196103359055858" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXmOrUwEGv0-CBHhlQGWxZnlCD5zDeUTJcU9STklPBpRYoqF2ZD153k-QZVvsFV64eZkOv4x3HtEa25jx439aC4MLOWKwWNyVuVYaaapaSzNvXFNKso0ws9vXELK6tM0J8bHjHDdUVxo/s1600/IMG_6807-726694.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXmOrUwEGv0-CBHhlQGWxZnlCD5zDeUTJcU9STklPBpRYoqF2ZD153k-QZVvsFV64eZkOv4x3HtEa25jx439aC4MLOWKwWNyVuVYaaapaSzNvXFNKso0ws9vXELK6tM0J8bHjHDdUVxo/s320/IMG_6807-726694.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5527196103022603650" /></a></p><tr height="15" style="border-top: 1px solid #0F7BBC;"> <td> It's that time of year again: Valley season! Tommy and I will be in Yosemite for all of October and November trying to finish off the Dawn Wall/Mescalito Project. I'm packing up everything I need for the next two months: ropes, fresh shoes, haul bags, rack, tons of chalk, and a whole summer's worth of psyche. I think about El Cap every day. I even dreamt about the first traverse pitch a couple nights ago. The pitch ends standing at a no hands rest on a 9 inch wide foot ledge. You're smack in the middle of the blankest part of the wall, surrounded by a sea of granite, strangely comfortable. In my dream, I made it through all the cruxes and was rocking onto the foot ledge (also quite hard) when I finally stood up, only to realize that I was so precariously perched I couldn't reach to clip the anchors without falling! Noooooooo!!!! </td> </tr> <tr height="15" style="border-top: 1px solid #0F7BBC;"> <td> While in Colorado this summer, Tommy and I did a long interview with Dougald McDonald in Estes Park. The interview and photos (from Tim Kemple and Corey Rich) just hit the newstands in the October issue of Climbing Magazine. I was worried about all the press this project has been receiving, especially considering the fact that it is still a project. I didn't want it to create the expectation and pressure of completion. Instead, To my relief, it feels like there is an overwhelming level of support, energy and encouragement. This goes a long way when the going gets tough, so thank you. </td> </tr> kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-47526599546741187812010-05-04T13:58:00.000-07:002010-05-04T14:02:48.750-07:00All Access DVD<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium; "><p align="center" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Tahoma, serif;">Hey all,</span></p><p align="center" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Tahoma, serif;">I just caught wind the of that Petzl has teamed up with Access Fund to produce the All Access DVD, the proceeds of which benefit the AF 100%. I was happy to see that Chuck Fryberger donated my segment from PURE to the cause, as I have long been a supporter and member of the AF. Check out the press release below for full details. </span></p><p align="center" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Tahoma, serif;">Thanks!</span></p><p align="center" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Tahoma, serif;">KJ</span></p><p align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Tahoma, serif;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p align="center"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><b>Petzl Announces Release of <i>All Access</i> DVD<br /></b><i>Filmmakers Rally to Support Conservation and Climbing; All Proceeds Dedicated to Keeping Climbing Areas Open</i></span><br /></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><b>CLEARFIELD, Utah (April 22</b><sup><b>nd</b></sup><b>, 2010) – </b>Petzl, a leader in technical climbing gear and hands-free lighting, today announced the release of <i>All Access</i>, a compilation of climbing films from the industry’s top adventure filmmakers. <i>All Access</i> features ten original climbing films, with 100% of proceeds to benefit the Access Fund (</span><a href="http://www.accessfund.org/" target="_blank"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;color:#0000FF;"><u>www.accessfund.org</u></span></a><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">) and its efforts toward keeping climbing areas open.</span><br /></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">Last summer, several leading climbing manufacturers united to support the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign, or AFLCC (</span><a href="http://www.accessfund.org/aflcc" target="_blank"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;color:#0000FF;"><u>www.accessfund.org/aflcc</u></span></a><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">), the first-ever multi-million-dollar revolving loan program that provides local climbing organizations (LCOs) and other agencies with the funds and expertise needed to act quickly to save threatened climbing areas. Petzl was among the first to step up and contribute, taking a step further in committing to long-term investment in and support of the AFLCC.</span><br /></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">To support the AFLCC, Petzl’s John Evans, an Access Fund Board member, decided to get creative, involving the climbing community at large and reaching beyond the trade for awareness and support. Evans solicited climbing filmmakers to contribute short, inspiring climbing films for the <i>All Access</i> compilation DVD.</span><br /></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">“It was incredible how willing and motivated everyone was to commit to this project,” said Evans. “It is truly a community effort, and one with real impact -- an effort by climbers, for climbers, to keep climbing access a reality for everyone.”</span><br /></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">Petzl committed to covering the production costs for each DVD, and the filmmakers agreed to donate their work for the effort, making the project viable. <br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><i>All Access</i> features the following films from a talented roster of climbing filmmakers:</span><br /></p><p> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><i>Catching Reality</i> – Emil Sergel</span></p><ul><p> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><i>Hey Presto</i> – Paul Diffley, Hot Aches Productions</span></p></ul><ul><p> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><i>Infinity Lane</i> – TLC Productions</span></p></ul><ul><p> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><i>Medeoz</i> – Guillaume Broust</span></p></ul><ul><p> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><i>PURE: Sonoma County with Kevin Jorgeson</i> – Chuck Fryberger</span></p></ul><ul><p> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><i>Steph Davis</i> – Sender Films</span></p></ul><ul><p> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><i>Steve McClure, Hubble</i> – Ben Pritchard</span></p></ul><ul><p> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><i>Weeks Before Winter</i>, featuring Chris Sharma – Mike Call</span></p></ul><p> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><i><br /></i>Plus a bonus film, <i>Blind and Naked</i>, by Cedar Wright, and an Access Fund message from Big Up Productions’ Josh Lowell. </span><br /></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">“Access is an important issue that all climbers have in common,” said Chuck Fryberger, an <i>All Access</i> contributor. “This project was a great call to action for climbers and climbing filmmakers alike.” </span></p><p> <span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><br />A trailer of <i>All Access </i>can be viewed at </span><a href="http://vimeo.com/11468012" target="_blank"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;color:#0000FF;"><u>http://vimeo.com/11468012</u></span></a></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">and the <i>All Access </i>DVD can be purchased through the Access Fund Store (</span><a href="http://www.accessfund.org/store" target="_blank"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;color:#0000FF;"><u>www.accessfund.org/store</u></span></a><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">) on Mountain Gear online (</span><a href="http://www.mgear.com/" target="_blank"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;color:#0000FF;"><u>www.mgear.com</u></span></a><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">), and at climbing festivals and events including the Banff Film Festival and the New River Rendezvous. Purchasing the DVD at a participating event will reward the buyer with instant gratification in the form of a free copy of<i>Climbing</i> magazine.</span><br /></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><b>About The Access Fund</b><i> </i><br />Since 1991, the Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 2.3 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: climbing management policy, stewardship and conservation, local support and mobilization, land acquisition and protection, and education. For more information visit <a href="http://www.accessfund.org/" target="_blank">www.accessfund.org</a>. </span><br /><br /><br /></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><b> About Petzl</b><br />For over 50 years, Petzl has been developing innovative tools and techniques used by those entering the vertical world. Today, the Petzl brand is closely associated with adventure, exploration, rescue, and many notable exploits in the worlds of rock climbing and alpinism. Petzl climbing hardware and headlamps can be found in outdoor specialty shops and premium sporting goods retailers around the world. For more information, log on to </span><a href="http://www.petzl.com/" target="_blank"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;"><u>www.petzl.com</u></span></a><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:100%;">.</span></p></span>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-61904320501224918612010-05-02T11:14:00.001-07:002010-05-02T11:14:21.834-07:00Boise bound<br /><br /><center><a href='http://blogpress.w18.net/photos/10/05/02/1253.jpg'><img src='http://blogpress.w18.net/photos/10/05/02/s_1253.jpg' border='0' width='187' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />- Posted from the road<br />kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-58265896792453869272010-04-18T04:13:00.001-07:002010-04-18T04:13:37.552-07:00Up and at em<br /><br /><center><a href='http://blogpress.w18.net/photos/10/04/18/246.jpg'><img src='http://blogpress.w18.net/photos/10/04/18/s_246.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />- Posted from the wall<br /><p class='blogpress_location'>Location:<a href='http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Yosemite%20Lodge%20Dr,Yosemite%20Valley,United%20States%4037.744061%2C-119.597716&z=10'>Yosemite Lodge Dr,Yosemite Valley,United States</a></p>kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2932299760821861517.post-28696211948713512882010-04-12T12:42:00.001-07:002010-04-12T12:42:42.219-07:00More snowArg....<br /><br /><center><a href='http://blogpress.w18.net/photos/10/04/12/1107.jpg'><img src='http://blogpress.w18.net/photos/10/04/12/s_1107.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br />kjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14968601667291891687noreply@blogger.com3